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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants Ballymaloe's charms

An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork, Ireland, to stay the night and to interview the late...

More Nick on restaurants

Nick on restaurants The Atlantic Ocean divides the profession of restaurant reviewing perhaps even more fundamentally than the pronunciation of potato and tomato...
Nick on restaurants A phone call from a mobile on a yacht somewhere in the Aegean Sea late this afternoon brought the exciting...
Nick on restaurants Two common themes run through all my most recent disappointing meals, whether at Per Se in New York or Arpège...
Nick on restaurants Restaurant correspondents rarely get the opportunity to be private detectives but for the past nine months I have been trying...
Nick on restaurants As we set off on the nine mile journey from Ashford International train station to The West House in Biddenden...
Nick on restaurants After our order in a leading London restaurant had been taken by a Latvian manageress and served by a Polish...
Nick on restaurants Sir Peter Michael was one of the first to challenge one of the few maxims common to both the wine...
Nick on restaurants Several London restaurateurs have asked me over the past couple of months, with admirable enthusiasm, whether there have been any...
Nick on restaurants The British ‘season’ that recently began at Glyndebourne, East Sussex and goes on to include the Chelsea Flower Show, Ascot...
Nick on restaurants Last week Alain Senderens, the cerebral, wine loving chef/proprietor of the art nouveau Lucas Carton restaurant in Paris announced that...
Nick on restaurants A romantic walk through the nearby Place Vendôme under a starlit sky during spring time in Paris was the ideal...
Nick on restaurants New York’s foremost restaurateurs are responding to the almost frenetic demand for reservations in their current establishments by expanding in...
Nick on restaurants Within seconds of being handed the menu at The Ledbury in Notting Hill Gate, which Nigel Platts-Martin and Philip Howard...
Nick on restaurants Politics encroached upon the British restaurant industry briefly in 1994 when Tony Blair famously met Gordon Brown over dinner at...
Nick on restaurants The only consolation for standing in the slow-moving queue towards Immigration at New York’s JFK airport recently was watching other...
Nick on restaurants As soon as I handed in my coat to the receptionist at Thomas Keller's overrated and extremely expensive Per Se...
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