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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Latest Nick on restaurants

Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants Poon's – now of Somerset House

A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of hospitality and Chinese cooking. From a restaurant in Macau where...

Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

More Nick on restaurants

Cagliari
Nick on restaurants Three restaurants declined as past, present and future by Nick. Atmospheric image of Sardinia's capital courtesy of Jeremy Woodhouse via...
Aponem exterior
Nick on restaurants A vegetable-dominated, all-female enterprise in the hills of the Haut-Languedoc has won great acclaim. Nick went to investigate. Image above...
Avenus outside Le Soleil in Savigny
Nick on restaurants In a follow-on from From Paris to the Med Nick recommends a simple but satisfying restaurant in Burgundy and one...
Henry Harris
Nick on restaurants Long-standing readers of this column may be aware of Nick’s equally long-standing professional admiration for the chef Henry Harris, above...
Chef Christophe Hardiquest in the kitchen of La Mère Germaine
Nick on restaurants A trio of restaurants in France – in Paris, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Marseille. Above, chef Christophe Hardiquest of La Mère Germaine...
Sangiacomo at Brolio
Nick on restaurants Hospitality lessons from three Tuscan wineries and three chefs. Above, Franco Sangiacomo, a Tuscan returnee from DC, now at Francesco...
Sollip's Woongchul Park
Nick on restaurants How two chefs (eventually) pleased their parents. Never underestimate the influence of a properly made baguette. That is the only...
Hispi cabbage
Nick on restaurants A vital cabbage question answered, with a surprise sustainability angle. Recently, while looking over a menu in a restaurant, Jancis...
London's Chinatown
Nick on restaurants The inside story of London's Chinatown. Its main thoroughfare Gerrard Street is seen above. It was just before 1 pm...
Chef Alex Dilling
Nick on restaurants 25 July Jancis adds It seems that soon after this article was published, this small, 11-table restaurant was overwhelmed by...
Nick Lander and Martin Lam at L'Escargot in the 1980s
Nick on restaurants Some reflections on changes to the hospitality industry over the last few decades. Above, Nick with chef Martin Lam at...
Wild Flor crew: Rob Maynard and James Thomson, chef Alistair Munro
Nick on restaurants A new gem that's a seaside walk from Brighton on the south coast of England, and within striking distance of...
Parakeet dishes
Nick on restaurants A great new arrival in north London. Assorted dishes from its kitchen are pictured above by Justin De Souza. London...
Rambutan kitchen
Nick on restaurants An authentic Sri Lankan restaurant in London's Borough Market is proving extremely popular. Were it not for the COVID-19 pandemic...
Rosetta kitchen
Nick on restaurants No apologies for supplementing last week's article on eating out in Mexico City; it's currently a restaurant hotspot. Three more...
The gardens outside Pujol restaurant in Mexico City
Nick on restaurants The new and the old savoured in one of the world's most vibrant restaurant cultures. The scene at 6 pm...
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