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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter. 

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Latest Nick on restaurants

Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants Poon's – now of Somerset House

A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of hospitality and Chinese cooking. From a restaurant in Macau where...

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Nick Lander Sunday 7 December 2025 • 5 min read
Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

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Nick Lander Sunday 30 November 2025 • 1 min read
Opus One winery
Nick on restaurants How restaurants have changed since 2000 – part 2
Nick Lander Sunday 23 November 2025 • 1 min read

More Nick on restaurants

Danny Meyer at Shake Shack, West Hollywood
Nick on restaurants
The importance of communication
In the era of social media and email, restaurateurs have no excuse to lack communication skills. As the late Russell...
Parsley Salon interior
Nick on restaurants
Eating out in Copenhagen
Today, the quality of Danish cuisine matches that of Danish furniture design. Above, the interior of the highly ambitious Parsley...
Ferran and Nick at Mantua, Jerez
Nick on restaurants
Meals of the year 2023
A mouth-watering retrospective. Above, a quizzical Ferran Centelles and a thoughtful Nick at Mantúa in Jerez, the one restaurant in...
Trattoria della Posta int
Nick on restaurants
Still eating in the Langhe
A follow-up to last week’s Eating in the Langhe. I don’t want to rub it in but our four recent...
Veglio quartet: Massimo, Cristina, Katharina and Emanuel
Nick on restaurants
Eating in the Langhe
The hills of Barolo and Barbaresco are always welcoming, but never more so than in white-truffle season. See also Still...
The Devonshire
Nick on restaurants
The big, central Devonshire
An ambitious new enterprise in the heart of London. ‘It’s got to be big and it’s got to be central.’...
Outside Infini
Nick on restaurants
Eating out in … Aruba
A Caribbean island that can offer a superior culinary experience. Above, diners at Infini enjoy a sunset aperitif before taking...
the exterior of Chez Bruce
Nick on restaurants
Chez Bruce – still strong
A beacon of fine food and wine in south London. Eleven years ago, shortly before our son Will became a...
St Pancras
Nick on restaurants
Formal and casual near St Pancras International
Nick finally reports from London! Above, the Victorian monument that is St Pancras as seen by a drone. The Midland...
Maison Sota exterior
Nick on restaurants
Maison Sota – spacious and gracious
Nick describes the ideal Saturday morning in Paris, which of course includes a great restaurant discovery. It began with breakfast...
Lourdes and Txomin Rekondo
Nick on restaurants
Bargain bottles in San Sebastián
When in this gastronomic capital, wine lovers should head straight to the restaurant run by Txomin Rekondo and his daughter...
Jerez skyline
Nick on restaurants
Eating in Jerez, drinking in Sanlúcar
Just three of the places in the Sherry Triangle savoured by Nick this week, not least for their relatively low...
BARE chefs in dining room
Nick on restaurants
Eating out in Bergen
Nick is knocked out by another Norwegian city. See also Eating out in Oslo. On the advice of friends, we...
Outside Hot Shop
Nick on restaurants
Eating out in Oslo
Nick and Jancis were given a warm welcome in Oslo this week. Three strong recommendations below. For herring My brother’s...
Pavyllon brigade
Nick on restaurants
Dining rooms become restaurants
Three very different combinations of restaurant and hotel considered. Whether you see them as ‘hotel dining rooms’ or ‘restaurants within...
Ana Dias
Nick on restaurants
Grand Café Occitan in Minervois
Restaurant rules, and a lamented London closure. As soon as we walked onto the shady terrace of the Grand Café...
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