Quintarelli v Dal Forno


Nick and I were invited to dinner by wine importer Alan Wong almost as soon as we arrived in Singapore last week for the Room to Read dinner. I'd last seen Alan at last March's Ridge retrospective in California. In advance he had promised an ultra-casual supper with 'Veneto wines'. In my innocence I imagined we'd be sipping an inconsquential Soave or two with some fresh seafood.

As he drove us away from our hotel he muttered something about a slight change of plan. It turned out to be a splendid and very special meal in the house of some...