A tasting of 'icons'

Ch Pichon Lalande's fementation tanks

Champagne Louis Roederer's UK import company, Maisons Marques et Domaines, celebrated its 35th anniversary recently with a tasting of wines judged icons from its portfolio, many of them from estates now property of the family-owned champagne house, based in Reims.

The late Michael Cox, who, in his career representing Wines of Chile in the UK, was often exposed to the word 'icon' in a wine context, used to say with a heavy does of cynicism that it was actually a two-word phenomenon. This was admittedly quite often true for Chilean wine companies keen on 'market segmentation'. But to what...