Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

The big get bigger – especially in Australia

Friday 15 June 2001 • 3 min read
If you are completely turned off corporate shenanigans and simply want to know what this means for the wine drinker in the street, click here.

There has been a marvellous game of leapfrog among Australia's biggest wine companies recently. Southcorp (Penfolds, Lindemans, Seppelt, Wynns, Uncle Tom Cobley and all) and BRL Hardys were the two biggest and at each others' throats. As reported here, Hardys recently overtook Southcorp, in terms of both volume and in warmth and cuddliness. (Penfolds had long suffered from being seen as a rather stodgy monolith.)

Then, earlier this year the merger was announced between Southcorp, then run by a non-wine corporate animal, and the family-owned Rosemount which had made such enviable progress in export markets, especially the US. At a fancy press conference last month over breakfast at Claridges in London (the message was clearly 'We're a big, grownup multinational now'), it was clear that the Rosemount team had stormed the Southcorp citadel. Nuriootpa (South Australia and Southcorp HQ) had been conquered by Rosemount's Sydney/Denman team. Keith Lambert CEO of Rosemount, and now CEO of whatever they are going to call Southcorp/Rosemount, rubbed our noses in graphs showing just how brilliantly Rosemount brands had grown while Penfolds' progress had been relatively dismal. There was lots of talk about growing brands, rationalising the poor performers, and the new omnipotence of Rosemount's long-time chief winemaker Phillip Shaw (who always seemed too delightfully laid back for the corporate fast lane into which he has been thrust).

This new alliance was definitively bigger than BRL Hardy, so there! BUT – it was also definitively Australian. Didn't they want to be a more international company? Lambert was asked. Weren't they rather ripe for a takeover? Such concerns were brushed aside as Rosemount/Southcorp basked in the glow of sheer size (180 million litres of wine a year; still only a fifth as big as Gallo) and a clarity of purpose (world domination again).

In the last few days however has come the announcement that arch-rivals BRL Hardy have now gone one better – as they would doubtless see it. After long and eventually fruitless talks about taking over Kendall Jackson, Jess Jackson's hugely successful California outfit making oceans of branded Chardonnay, BRL Hardy has now joined America's second largest wine supplier (and biggest distributor of wine and spirits), Constellation Brands. This is the holding company of the old, New York state-based Canandaigua which owns among other things Britain's largest distributor of wine and spirits, Matthew Clark.

The scheme is initially a 100-million-dollar joint venture involving the existing Monterey winery for Farallon and Constellation distributing Hardy's wines in the US but Hardy are busy issuing bullish statements about all the hundreds of millions of dollars it is planning to spend on further acquisitions in the US.

So what does this mean for the normal, wine-loving consumer? The most ominous statement from Rosemount/Southcorp about their merger is 'we believe this is a great opportunity for improving profitability'. This was at a conference mainly for financial journalists, after all, but there is certainly no chance of wines carrying the names Rosemount, Penfolds, Lindemans, Seppelt, Wynns etc are going to get any less expensive. And the signs are that they will be playing around with what I am sure they call their 'brand portfolio' so as to make even more money out of us even more efficiently. They have clearly stated they plan to make Penfolds reds a bit softer and release them earlier. Let's hope the new team do a better job at looking after Southcorp's more interesting acquisitions such as Coldstream Hills in the Yarra Valley and James Herrick in the Languedoc than their predecessors. BRL Hardy seem to be quite impressively on track with their Languedoc outpost ('anything you can do...') Domaine La Baume. Look out for their Viognier. The joke is that these two outfits effectively swapped winemakers a few months ago. But alas, as with everything else that is big and Australian in wine nowadays, individual winemakers are as tiny cogs in the wheel compared to corporate strategists.

So what does this mean for the normal, wine-loving consumer? The most ominous statement from Rosemount/Southcorp about their merger is 'we believe this is a great opportunity for improving profitability'. This was at a conference mainly for financial journalists, after all, but there is certainly no chance of wines carrying the names Rosemount, Penfolds, Lindemans, Seppelt, Wynns etc are going to get any less expensive. And the signs are that they will be playing around with what I am sure they call their 'brand portfolio' so as to make even more money out of us even more efficiently. They have clearly stated they plan to make Penfolds reds a bit softer and release them earlier. Let's hope the new team do a better job at looking after Southcorp's more interesting acquisitions such as Coldstream Hills in the Yarra Valley and James Herrick in the Languedoc than their predecessors. BRL Hardy seem to be quite impressively on track with their Languedoc outpost ('anything you can do...') Domaine La Baume. Look out for their Viognier. The joke is that these two outfits effectively swapped winemakers a few months ago. But alas, as with everything else that is big and Australian in wine nowadays, individual winemakers are as tiny cogs in the wheel compared to corporate strategists.

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 288,913 wine reviews & 15,880 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 288,913 wine reviews & 15,880 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 288,913 wine reviews & 15,880 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 288,913 wine reviews & 15,880 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

J&B Burgundy tasting at the IOD in Jan 2026
Free for all What to make of this exceptional vintage after London’s Burgundy Week? Small, undoubtedly. And not exactly perfectly formed. A version...
Australian wine tanks and grapevines
Free for all The world is awash with unwanted wine. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Above, a...
Meursault in the snow - Jon Wyand
Free for all 24 January 2026 All the tasting notes from London’s Burgundy Week have now been published, bringing the total number of...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...

More from JancisRobinson.com

London Shell Co trio
Nick on restaurants A winning combination in North London beguiles Nick, who seems to have amused the trio behind it. Above, left to...
SA fires by David Gass and Wine News in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Also: the WHO calls for raised alcohol taxes; more tariff drama; Champagne sales decline, and protests continue at Moët Hennessy...
Ryan Pass
Tasting articles Some promising representatives of the next generation of California wine brands. Above, w inemaker Ryan Pass of Pass Wines (photo...
The Marrone family, parents and three daughters
Wines of the week An incredibly refreshing Nebbiolo from a sustainably-minded family that sells for as little as €17.50, $24.94, £22.50. - - -...
Aerial view of various Asian ingredients
Inside information Part five of an eight-part series on how to pair wine with Asian flavours, adapted from Richard’s book. Click here...
Vineyards of Domaine Vaccelli on Corsica
Inside information Once on the fringes, Corsica has emerged as one of France’s most compelling wine regions. Paris-based writer Yasha Lysenko explores...
Les Halles de Narbonne
Tasting articles Ninety-nine wines showing the dazzling diversity of this often-underestimated region. Part 1 was published yesterday. See also Languedoc whites –...
September sunset Domaine de Montrose
Tasting articles Tam thinks so – and has nearly 200 red-wine recommendations to show for it. Come back tomorrow for the second...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.