The taste of summer for a song

I feel very sorry for the wines of the Loire. Many of them are quite delicious, and yet they are unfashionably high in refreshing natural (as opposed to aggressively jagged added) acidity and generally a degree or so lower in alcohol than more fashionable wines today so tend to be overlooked.

Lightly chilled red Loire wines made from Cabernet Franc such as Chinon, Bourgeuil and Anjou-Villages can be some of the most lovely reds to drink at this time of year, and the best whites just taste of summer to me.

The trick with wines from this far north is...