Languedoc-Roussillon & Provence – autumn collection

From Tourbes, near Pezenas. Spritzy. Just a little watery. Not quite enough freshness nor fruit. Astringent finish. On the way down? (JR)

Good Viognier typicality: apricot, peach, lots of blossom. Feminine and easygoing. (RH)

14%

Grenache Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc. Curious mix of fleshy stone fruit and grassy, green herbs. Clashes for me. (RH)

12.5%

Viognier and Marsanne. Real zest and interest on the nose. Mouthfilling proper wine compared to many others. Full but dry and lively.  (JR) 14%

Gosh, quite a price! I assume there is some smart oak involved here (actually I now remember that any Limoux Chardonnay has by law got to be oak aged) and indeed there is just the merest hint of whisky about it but it certainly couldn’t be described as oaky. Firm and dry. No one could possibly be offended by this example. Substantial in the mouth. (JR) 13.5%

The vines here grow on clay and chalky soils on the hilltops of the Gers department in the south-west of France. The grapes for this wine were harvested in the early hours of the morning and evenings of mid September. The winemaking process was oriented on thiols extraction and minimal oxidation, achieved via six to eight hours of skin contact at 8-12°C. After the press the must was kept on lees for three days.
Clean without searing acidity. Does the business even if you would probably tire after one glass. (JR) 11%

Not much varietal aroma – a bit industrial on the nose. Then salty. (JR) 13%

100% Chardonnay. Pneumatic press, cold settling, and 25% fermentation in new oak barrels and 75% fermentation in stainless-steel vats between 14°C and 16 °C. On the lees with bâtonnage for six months in the barrels.
Chardonnay with a slightly Sauvignonesque accent. (Yeast?) Certainly not heavy but a little astringent on the finish at the moment. And a bit sweet! 13.5%

Two varieties of Clairette with a little Ugni Blanc and raised in oak for six months.
Amazing what price Ugni Blanc can command if grown near Aix! Southern sun, breadth, creaminess and a 'kiss of oak' (copyright R Mondavi). Lots of interest but I think you'd need to be reminded of a holiday to be thrilled at that price. Good texture and presence though. By no means a fly-by-night. (JR) 13%

'The best parcel of Roussanne at Mas Christine'. Sweet and a tad soft. Not very appetising and without the perfume of many Roussannes. Heavy. (JR) 14%

50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Grenache Gris, 20% Maccabeu. Rather obvious oak on the nose and a bit jagged. Not the most expressive and natural Roussillon white to me! Very chewy finish. (JR) 12.5%

66% Grenache Gris, 34% Grenache Blanc. A really good mouthful, even though I say it myself! [JR's wine choice for the Absolutely Cracking Wines from France tasting.] (JR) 14.5%

40% Chardonnay, 42% Chenin Blanc, 18% Mauzac. Light nose and well integrated. Relatively complex but not given away! (JR) 13.5%

Bit light on the nose and a tad dull. (JR) 12%

50:50 Roussanne and Vermentino. Smoky, off dry, with real beginning, middle and end. Lots of juice and greengage fruit. (JR) 12.5%

Very neutral nose and broad palate. Could do with a bit more nerve. (JR) 12.5%

Easy and off dry. Well made but pretty industrial. (JR) 12.5%

Old-vine Grenache Gris and Macabeu (average age 30 years) planted in 'a hollow near the stream' (that's what the name means) on clay-limestone soils. Fermented and aged 10 months in demi-muids.
Both creamy and a touch smoky on the nose. Dense and fresh with lovely intensity and yet still has a delicacy and lightness of touch. Stony citrus, a touch herbal and that lovely pear ripeness that is so typical of these varieties in this region, with a salty edge increasing the freshness. Oak is very much in the background, giving a creamy, leesy texture rather than any oak flavour. (JH) 14%

45% Grenache Blanc, 35% Grenache Gris, 20% Macabeu grown on clay-limestone soils black shale. Half the juice fermented in demi-muids, the other half in concrete. pH 3.32, RS 2.1 g/l. Matured 9 months in French oak barrels, some new, and vats.
Distinctive aromas that include pear and citrus but also a more floral note not unlike white blossom. Pear on the palate too but without the pear texture. Cool and fragrant and dry with a zesty finish. Some peachy softness even though it has fresh acidity. Long too, a slight bitterness at the end adding freshness. (JH) 13.9%

Not much Viognier character. Too old? (JR)

Soft and powdery nose. Just off dry. Very pretty pale pinky orange. Does the bit. (JR)

Very pale orange. Scented and satin smooth. Very well done and a food wine with herby and marine scents. A bit lighter than the most famous Bandol rosé and a tad more like Esclans – but much cheaper! Mouth filling. GV (JR) 13%

Crimson and not that dense. Mid crimson. Treacle notes with herbs and spices. Dry finish. Still neat and racy. Transparent. Lively. Overall there is the trademark combination of minerals and sweetness. Sweetness dominates at the moment. Then a bit chewy on the end. (JR)

14.5%

Very pure cordial style fruit. Smells like it needs dilution! Ripeness continues on the palate. Smoky finish. Good, modern, fully ripe. (RH)

14.5%

Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah. Sweet oak, ripe fruit. Could quite easily be Australian or Chilean. Well sculpted, but not typically French, really. (RH)

14%

Pretty quiet nose. Some black cherry and blackcurrant leaf on the palate, but it’s an understated, simple style. (RH)

13.5%

Quite suppressed and slightly hot. Decent enough as a house wine with a plate of something rustic and simple. (RH)

13.5%

Merlot, Grenache, Carignan. Juicy blackberry jam fruit, sweet spices. Soft, juicy, fragrant. Loads of flavour, in a classic and recognisable southern French style. GV (RH)

14%

60% Syrah and 40% Carignan, harvested with a yield of 35hl/ha, grown on the garrigue hills of the Minervois appellation at 100 – 250m altitude on mixed quaternary layers including sandstone, schist and marble. Each grape variety was vinified individually and traditionally in order to express its individual character. Partly traditional ferment of free-run with a % undergoing whole bunch fermentation by carbonic maceration method, in epoxy-lined concrete vats. Full malo then aged in 225 litre Bordelaise barrels for 8 months. Bottled July 2011. Winemaker Gérard Bertrand. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans. TA 4.65g/l, pH 3.81, RS 1.4g/l. DWWA 2012 Bronze Medal.
Really attractive fruit purity – much more modern and rewarding than the Dom Marie Faugères. Clearly made for an ‘international’ palate, but doesn’t lose it’s innate Frenchness either – it’s savoury, restrained and with light, floury tannin. (RH) 13%

60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, grown organically. Aromas of red and black fruits that make your mouth water, lightly peppery. Utterly drinkable, so juicy and refreshing without being simple. Lively at first and then spreads across the palate. Tannins are present but smoothly in the background to give some structure. Showing the best qualities of both Cabernets. VGV (JH) 13.2%

Sweaty, reductive, rustic, tender and intriguing. Stylish – typically French! Not for the mainstream, but no less valid for that. (RH) 14%

Slightly wild nose: flirting with dirtiness. Better black fruit clarity on the palate, but quite hard work. (RH) 13.5%

60% Cinsault. Mid crimson. Very fruity and pretty – sweet and gentle. Some vitality. GV (JR)

Very dark crimson. A bit reduced with a chewy end. Hard work – it needs air! (JR) 14.5%

Luscious, intense, and fantastically concentrated. Lots of tannin, but meticulous. Long. Kerpow! (JR) 14.5%

Ch Pibarnon's winemaker. Dense and not reduced. Solid and warm. VGV (JR)

Concentrated and just a little chunky and youthful. Brooding for the moment but I know how well these wines age. The 2005 was lovely this summer. (JR)

14.5%

Very dark. Seductively well knit with a real beginning, middle and end, sleek leathery flavours and a glossiness to it, though no tarty sweetness. Excellent example of the value to be had here. VGV. (JR) 14%

Sweet and transparent. Correct but a little austere at the moment. (JR)

Succulent and dry on the end. Good texture. It would be fab at £8.99… (JR)

The red version of the hailstorm rosé. A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet, Merlot
Deep purple. Violets and crushed rocks on the nose. Dark fruit, slightly smoky, rugged with scented garrigue. Almost meaty. Beautifully integrated – a wine of the earth, but with perfume and lift and grace. Tannins as soft and supple as chamois. Fresh on the finish with the lightest brush of liquorice and crushed black olive on the finish. (TC) 13.5%

From a single vineyard of centenarian vines. Unfiltered and sealed with 'beeswax from some bee-keeping friends'). Only 1,422 bottles were filled. If anything it is a less deep crimson than the regular 2011. (Les Genoux – bee's knees – geddit?) Headily perfumed and more transparent somehow  than the regular bottling. In fact you could easily gobble this up immediately. Really very fine. Lifted like a fine red burgundy. Lovely fine texture. Sweet but not sickly. It does rather remind me of that vat of Clos de Papes with the super-high alcohol but no trace of it on the palate. Feels very nourishing. But fresh. The tannins are all but imperceptible. Well done, Brits! (JR) 15%

80% Syrah, 20% Grenache. Classic low-temperature vinification, 28 °C maximum. Five weeks on the skins for the Syrah, and three weeks for the Grenache. Matured for 18-24 months in new French oak.
Gosh, it has been some time since I have seen a Skalli wine! They seem to be going towards terroir from varietals, not before time. There's a little sweetness and not quite the depth of the Gros & Tollot Fontanilles 2011. I should imagine the oak tannins were pretty fierce until now. 13.5%

20-year-old Grenache, 20-year-old Syrah, 45-year-old Carignan. 50% barrels and 50% stainless-steel tanks.
Healthy crimson. Sweet, gentle-textured, well-melded Languedoc blend with burgundian polish. Not a bad price at all. Much more sophisticated than the average Minervois. Very satisfying persistence. 14.5%

A blend of 30-year-old Carignan, with 40-year-old Cinsault, together with 18-year-old Grenache vines, matured in stainless steel.
Mid crimson. Intense nose that really does smell a little burgundian! Lots of warmth and juice but overall a most attractive fragrance. Real hand-crafted stuff. Most unusual but most satisfying. Lovely now. VGV 13.5%

100% Syrah. From an organically farmed vineyard. The fruit is de-stemmed, crushed and fermented in vat at 28 °C maximum over five days. There follows a further five days in lined concrete vat, 20% in French oak.
Screwcapped offering from Ch de Conas in Pézenas. Bright crimson. Vibrant Syrah nose more in northern Rhône mould than super-ripe Languedoc. Good structure and nicely homespun for the price. Vineyards between Pézenas and Sète apparently. GV

13.5%

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend from Narbonne-Plage. Blackish ruby. Round and ripe on the nose. Sweet and just a tad tarty but it delivers masses of fruit per penny. Just a hint of rusty nail on the end. (JR)

Mid crimson. Lightly cheesy. Then lots of richness and kerpow fine fruit. Great fun for anyone not afraid of high alcohol. Masses of impact. Malty and fun. GV (JR) 15.5%

Demeter. Grenache and Syrah blend from vines grown at 400 m above the village of Arboras.
Light ruby. Rich and sweet and full of fresh appeal. Much more user friendly than most Côtes du Rhône. Sweet, spicy and very natural. GV (JR) 15%

Mostly Mourvèdre and Syrah with Carignan and Grenache in support. No oak. Correct and nicely balanced. Claret structure with southern accent and flesh. Good polished leather finish. Not a headline grabber but awfully good for the money. Very vital. GV (JR) 14%

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Dark ruby. Some evolution at the rim. Gently integrated and much better value than, for example, the Palette white shown at the same tasting. Gentle and mature, Lively. Dry finish. Neat and persistent with spice and quite a bit of tannin but not aggressively much. GV (JR) 13.5%

Lovely sweet richness – surely Grenache? Yes 65% (with 20% Syrah, 15% Carignan and Mourvèdre) and lovely evolution. Full of richness, warmth and garrigue, Funny to think it's made so close to Spain. Lovely and long. Not too alcoholic, some tannins but really great French local character. GV (JR) 14%

60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 20% Carignan. Robust and well made although I feel I know many other wines like it! Chewy and made for food but with great local personality. (JR) 15%

Carignan. A bit tarted up and over the oaky top. Chewy end. (JR) 15%

Polish and sinewy and lively. See earlier tasting note. (JR)

Rich and sweet. Sculpted for maximum enjoyment and a very fair price. Organic Syrah in some oak. GV (JR) 14.5%

Young, simple and fruity. An early adopter of organics. Good but simple and merely ripe. (JR) 14.2%

The sweetness and Carignan makes this a bit too awkward and sweet and sour for me to love at the moment. (JR) 13.7%

Round and gentle – fully evolved. Very firm finish though after a fully evolved nose. I wonder whether it will ever be in perfect balance? (JR)

14.5%

55% Syrah, 45% Grenache. Sweet and scented with a suggestion of altitude. Very pretty – great tannin management. Lightly medicinal but in a good way. (JR)

13.5%

Hint of oak on top of the fruit. Not especially distinguished. Slightly hard work. (JR) 13.5%

From Tautavel. pH 3.83. Grenache and Carignan co-fermented in concrete tanks, Syrah undergoes three-week carbonic maceration. Sans soufre = without added SO2.
Deep crimson. High-toned red fruit, a little spirity on the nose at first. But it also has the complexity of notes of earth and liquorice and dark fruit on the palate and garrigue's wild scrubland. Highly fragrant. Dense with ripe but fresh fruit. Firm, quite chewy and very pure with peppery overtones and a long satisfying finish. I'm assuming it shouldn't be kept as it has no added sulphur but the tannins and acidity may just keep it in good condition for longer. (JH) 15%

A blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. Deep crimson. Ripe sweet/sour cherry fruit – delicious purity and freshness. That same fruit purity on the palate but with no excess sweetness and just fine dry tannins. Mouthwatering and refreshing and full of youthful energy. Vibrant and just the right amount of chew on the finish to make it a great food wine. The fruit lingers on the finish. (JH) 13.5%

Schist, slate and chalky soils soils, 60% old-vine Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Carbonic maceration for the Syrah. Aged in new demi-muids casks for 12-16 months.
Deep opaque crimson. First impression is sweet oak spice and perfectly ripe dark fruit plus a faint floral aroma. Really perfumed as it opens up. Rich, chewy and spicy on the palate, tannins are thick and deep but soft. Plenty to get your teeth into and will surely become much more refined with time in bottle. The alcohol is surprisingly well hidden and there's a very dry texture on the finish. Good acidity, a little warm on the finish and there's a clear sense of place of origin in the definition and minerally tone. Might have scored it higher but for the evidence of alcohol. (JH) 16%

75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Carignan grown on schist, clay and chalky soils near the village of Maury, fermented in concrete. Part aged in barrels for 10 months, part in concrete.
Lifted fragrant fruit aroma with a touch of vanilla and cedary herbs. Really bright and full of life. Then compact and still very toothsome on the palate. Some spice, plenty of freshness and quite a firm tannic grip without astringency. Very satisfying southern red with an attractive mineral quality adding sophistication. Delicious. (JH) 14.8%

Organic wine. Grown on acidic schistous soils on the slopes of St-Chinian. Machine harvested. Part vinified as a rosé, part traditional red ferment. pH 3.19.
Deep cherry red. Spicy cherry fruit on the nose, slightly bloody and peppery too. Peppery and sweet-fruited on the palate, more red fruit than classic Syrah black fruit. Hint of earthy mushroom (that's positive, not mushroom as in rot). Lovely fresh acidity, juicy finish and overall refreshingly bright and fresh fruited but with a nice savoury undertow at the end. (JH) 12.5%

'Tiny bunches of' Grenache and Carignan' according to the back label written by MW Justin Howard-Sneyd, his wife Amanda, and Philippe. Winemaker is Richard Case, owner of Domaine de la Pertuisane in Maury. Dark crimson. Very intense nose promises that it has hidden depths. Rich but not hot. Really very beguiling. No pussycat but lovely texture. The burnt black-fruit flavours unfurl slowly like a cat stretching. I'm convinced! Very beguiling with considerable tannins but masses of fruit and herbs too. (JR) 15%

Also owned by Catherine Roque of Domaine Clovallon. Sweet gentle mouthful – very easy to drink. (JR) 12.5%

Brigitte Chevalier. Soft ruby. Sweet and round, very juicy and quite burgundian. Quite different from most – sort of Stéphane Derenoncourt style. GV? (JR) 14%