To accompany my recent Provençal vision of the future article, here follows a collection of tasting notes on that region's major output, rosé.
The most notable wine, however, is also the odd one out: a first ever (I think) taste of Ch d'Esclan's inaugural white wine from Sasha Lichine and consultant Patrick Léon (ex Mouton), an oak-aged Rolle, the local synonym for Vermentino. It shares all the craft and quality of their famed rosés, on which Jancis reported in Pink wine can be fine wine.
The notes are presented in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name.
WHITE
White
To be released 2011. Pineapples, vanilla, loads of opulence and tropical fruit. Fabulous: such vivacity and poise, great texture, good dose of oak lending complexity. Lengthy, balanced, reminiscent of the leaner styles of white Bordeaux, perhaps. (RH)
Drink:
2011
–
2012
ROSÉ
Rosé
Peach colour, charming smoke aromas with a red fruit and a light, slightly bitter and salty finish. A few flashes of green leaf, nice texture, good length. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
Price: £12 Wine Society, Marc Fine Wines
Rosé
Quite straightforward, ripe strawberry fruit, stones and minerals, dry and floury. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
Price: £8.99 Laithwaites
Rosé
Light, simple red fruits, strawberry and cherry. Primary, straightforward, and a bit sharp and warm on the finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Oranges, some citrus, pale and gentle but with a good, delicate persistence. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2010
Price: £13.99 Oddbins
Rosé
Iodine, medicinal, unusual metallic character. Esoteric, in a slightly arbitrary, almost irritating sort of way. Not my style. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
Price: £10.50 Wine Society, Tanners
Rosé
Red cherries, light body, refreshing and balanced. Very subtle, clean and rounded. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
Price: £13 Enotria
Rosé
Gentle flavours but impressive persistence, delicate but confident. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Organic. 50% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 15% Syrah. Raspberry juice, a bit of rose petal, a rosehip bitterness to finish. A mite crude. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
Citrus, floral, smooth and creamy with appealing texture and a fresh finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Price: £10.25 Vintage Roots
Rosé
Pure cherry, some bitter nut character, delicate but round, great mouthfeel. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
Focused red fruit and elegant stone aromas. Dry, textured and good persistence of flavour throughout, with generous ripeness whilst retaining lightness of touch. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Price: £10.95 Raffles Fine Wines
Rosé
Fine strawberry flavour, full concentration, viscous and almost a little too thick on the back palate. Nonetheless, pretty and well balanced. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink:
2010
Price: £12.50 Harrods, Whole Foods
Rosé
Candied fruits, strawberry, simple, dry but ripe. Fresh, easygoing, affable and quaffable. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
6,000 bottles. Genuine complexity: raspberry, cherry plus a nettle and herby character. No obvious oak influence, stones, fine balance and very gentle persistence. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2012
Rosé
Fresh, light raspberries on the nose with rather more force and impact on the palate. Creamy texture, round and plump without heaviness. Dry, mineral character on the length. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2011
Rosé
Apples, strawberry candy, a bit of oxidative character creeping in, but fresh for the most part. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Gentle, red fruits, subtle. Some bitter citrus character gives length on the finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
Cabernet and Syrah. Ripe strawberries, tickly acidity, creamy mouthfeel and crisp, brief finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
Grenache, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Apricot and peach, creamy smooth character on the mid-palate, very succulent and juicy. Fine grainy texture. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
Saignée method. Some bronzing to the colour. Plenty of wood on the nose, creamy and vanilla-scented, long oak aftertaste and rich red fruits. Big, hearty, powerful, foursquare. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Rosé
Ripe, cherry candy, lots of concentration and a syrupy tone. Bright, fresh acid on the finish cleanses the palate. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Elegant rose floral character, pretty rich and lengthy, with a slight austerity from prominent acid structure. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Subtle, nuanced red fruits with a fresh floral tone. Ripe, boiled sweets, full and concentrated. A big style saved from clumsiness by balanced acid. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
Price: £12.99 Taurus Wines, Caviste, Harrods, l'Art du Vin
Rosé
Subtle, closed, elegant mineral scent with a creamy character on the mid palate. Rather slight in the final analysis. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Oranges, citrus, stones, slightly leafy bitterness. Dry, basic, pleasant and easy-drinking. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2010
Rosé
Dry, light, delicate, a little non-committal, flavour-wise. Terribly faint. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
Price: £13
Rosé
Vanilla, cream, light red fruits, a bit of creamy citrus. Definite oak character on the nose, though very subtle on the palate, adding a welcome extra dimension, fleshing out the palate and providing complexity without dominating. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink:
2010
–
2011
Price: £20 Champagne et Chateaux
