Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Doppo – Italian restaurant or not?
A gem for wine lovers in London’s Soho. Just part of its giant wine list (temporarily stolen) is shown above. The inherently Italian pleasures of my lunch at Doppo on...
Nick Lander
Sunday 8 March 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. El Bulli, just outside Roses on the Costa Brava, has been...
Don't quote me
At some point in the great history of the human race, somebody figured out that the ideal serving of a...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. The recently opened Venice Biennale has captured the headlines with photos...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. By the standards of the organised chaos that inevitably overwhelms every...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. I met Maguy Le Coze, la patronne for the past 25...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times.
At 3.15 pm an elegant, silver-haired woman was walking past the...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. The Gilbert Scott restaurant, named after the original architect of the...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times.When I met an old Catalan friend in the lobby of the...
Nick on restaurants
Our excitement at being invited by chef-patron Ferran Adrià to enjoy a final dinner at El Bulli before it closes...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times.At 11.30 pm, Mads Kleppe, the Norwegian sommelier at Noma, Copenhagen, currently...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Now that the annual invasion of London by chefs and restaurateurs...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. My investment in Prune restaurant in downtown New York took two...
Free for all
This is not a great night for eating out in famous restaurants around the world. An extraordinary proportion of their...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Menus that rely on seasonal ingredients are now ubiquitous. But are...
Don't quote me
I finally made it to Heston Blumenthal's new restaurant Dinner overlooking the park from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in London...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Alessandro Grassi, a proud Florentine, was standing outside Zeb, close to...