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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants Poon's – now of Somerset House

A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of hospitality and Chinese cooking. From a restaurant in Macau where...

More restaurant reviews

Moaz Alonim of Chapel Market Kitchen
Nick on restaurants Big, bearded Maoz Alonim has quit Israel for Islington, London. I first met Maoz Alonim seven years ago and in...
Isaac McHale and his mum
Nick on restaurants What six respected chefs learned from their mothers, each pictured below. Above, a young Isaac McHale of The Clove Club...
POTL kitchen
Nick on restaurants Savoury desserts and eye-catching price disparities. I get far too many emails from food and restaurant publicists and I ignore...
Claridge's restaurant
Nick on restaurants A top London hotel has had a makeover, which has been extended to its flagship restaurant. How successfully though? In...
Kolae grill
Nick on restaurants You've really got to be there to enjoy this cuisine; don't take it away. Above, the kitchen at Kolae. It...
Dear Jackie interior
Nick on restaurants Nick considers some eye-opening figures behind the just-released 2024 Michelin guide to UK restaurants and introduces Dear Jackie. These prices...
chef Stuart Andrew at 64 Goodge Street
Nick on restaurants An under-discussed but essential prerequisite to running a successful restaurant. Above, chef Stuart Andrew and his crew finding their groove...
Papas arrugadas - Canary Island potatoes
Nick on restaurants The reasons for this flight to the sun will become clear next weekend. It was just over 10 years ago...
Jincheng Alley exterior
Nick on restaurants Nick gears up for the Year of the Wood Dragon. London's Burgundy Week in January has invariably been a week...
Isaac McHale at The Clove Club
Nick on restaurants The rhythm of the restaurant business, and when it costs to cancel a reservation. This week’s column was to have...
Aldeburgh beach
Nick on restaurants Enoteca Turi has a fabulous wine list; The Lighthouse, a stone’s throw from this Aldeburgh beach, has a fabulous host...
Holly Willcocks at Mountain
Nick on restaurants A bright new flame burns in London's Soho. Fans of Tomos Parry's cooking and grilling no longer need to trek...
Danny Meyer at Shake Shack, West Hollywood
Nick on restaurants In the era of social media and email, restaurateurs have no excuse to lack communication skills. As the late Russell...
Parsley Salon interior
Nick on restaurants Today, the quality of Danish cuisine matches that of Danish furniture design. Above, the interior of the highly ambitious Parsley...
Ferran and Nick at Mantua, Jerez
Nick on restaurants A mouth-watering retrospective. Above, a quizzical Ferran Centelles and a thoughtful Nick at Mantúa in Jerez, the one restaurant in...
Trattoria della Posta int
Nick on restaurants A follow-up to last week’s Eating in the Langhe. I don’t want to rub it in but our four recent...
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