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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Diners in Hawksmoor restaurant, London, in the daytime
Nick on restaurants When the world likes to eat out

Nick reports on a global dining trend. Above, diners at Hawksmoor in London. My frequent conversations with our restaurateur son invariably reveal to me the enormous changes that have taken...

More restaurant reviews

Queen's English crispy pig ear
Nick on restaurants During a recent whirlwind trip to the East Coast, Nick discovered two Chinese restaurants that offer not only a range...
A Wong Shanghai dumplings
Nick on restaurants The Alma Inn in Essex and A Wong's in London (maker of the dumplings displayed above) are vastly different but...
De Marchi and Gleave address somms at Isole e Olena
Nick on restaurants There's nothing like experiencing a wine region first-hand, as legions of invitees have found. And it does no harm for...
the interior of a London cafe
Nick on restaurants Of two new London restaurants, Nick chooses to review the bargain option. Above, the interior of Camille. The recent opening...
Zuni anchovy classic
Nick on restaurants Nick visits Napa classics Mustards Grill and Auberge du Soleil and checks in to the newer Charlie’s, before fitting in...
Tartine breakfast San Francisco
Nick on restaurants The city has changed, but there is no shortage of good things to eat, such as the breakfast above at...
Crabshakk spread
Nick on restaurants ... and why you should have no qualms about ordering fish on a Monday. This week has been mainly about...
Ben Warner of benugo
Nick on restaurants A business launched on the quality of its sandwiches. Above, the Ben (Warner) of Benugo. His brother supplied the other...
Moaz Alonim of Chapel Market Kitchen
Nick on restaurants Big, bearded Maoz Alonim has quit Israel for Islington, London. I first met Maoz Alonim seven years ago and in...
Isaac McHale and his mum
Nick on restaurants What six respected chefs learned from their mothers, each pictured below. Above, a young Isaac McHale of The Clove Club...
POTL kitchen
Nick on restaurants Savoury desserts and eye-catching price disparities. I get far too many emails from food and restaurant publicists and I ignore...
Claridge's restaurant
Nick on restaurants A top London hotel has had a makeover, which has been extended to its flagship restaurant. How successfully though? In...
Kolae grill
Nick on restaurants You've really got to be there to enjoy this cuisine; don't take it away. Above, the kitchen at Kolae. It...
Dear Jackie interior
Nick on restaurants Nick considers some eye-opening figures behind the just-released 2024 Michelin guide to UK restaurants and introduces Dear Jackie. These prices...
chef Stuart Andrew at 64 Goodge Street
Nick on restaurants An under-discussed but essential prerequisite to running a successful restaurant. Above, chef Stuart Andrew and his crew finding their groove...
Papas arrugadas - Canary Island potatoes
Nick on restaurants The reasons for this flight to the sun will become clear next weekend. It was just over 10 years ago...
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