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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants Poon's – now of Somerset House

A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of hospitality and Chinese cooking. From a restaurant in Macau where...

More restaurant reviews

Nyhavn harbour in Copenhagen
Nick on restaurants Ancient and modern in the Danish capital, so famous for its restaurants and open sandwiches. We arrived in Copenhagen hungry...
Indian Accent interior
Nick on restaurants Nick describes two more very different but equally remarkable restaurants in Mumbai. See also Three great vegetarian meals in India...
St Peter's Square at 7.15am
Nick on restaurants The Eternal City is eternally crowded, as witness the queue in St Peter's Square as early as 7.15 am. The...
Passerini kitchen
Nick on restaurants Four restaurants of note, two on each side of the English Channel. Above, the kitchen at Passerini in Paris. The...
Business lunch
Free for all A look at an institution, through (an empty) wine glass. A version of this article is published by the Financial...
Haarlem at night
Nick on restaurants Nick searched for Indonesian food while Jancis celebrated a special anniversary. Above, one of the many outdoor restaurants in the...
View of New Delhi from The Chambers
Nick on restaurants Is Indian cuisine showing the way for our planet? India is in a wonderful position to teach the rest of...
Bhutanese performers
Nick on restaurants What do they eat in the famously happy Himalayan kingdom? See also Bhutan - now a wine producer. As I...
Vero Andraud arranges her stall in Carcassonne
Nick on restaurants Above, Nick's new boss getting ready for a day's trading. Like so many others, I am a creature of habit...
KInsale harbour
Nick on restaurants Two reasons why Kinsale in southern Ireland is a popular foodie destination. Above, Kinsale harbour, pictured by Eduardo Fonseca Arraes...
Entrance to Les Grands Buffets
Nick on restaurants An unlikely location and concept for what The New Yorker described recently as ‘the hottest restaurant in France’. Les Grands...
Dede garden wall
Nick on restaurants A superb, thoroughly unexpected, restaurant in West Cork. Above, the view from the garden at Dede at the Customs House...
View from a Languedoc kitchen
Don't quote me A month of contrasts. After a busy start, life has really, really calmed down for me this month. Which is...
Tania at L'Art & Gourmand and camouflage netting
Nick on restaurants The pleasure of trackside dining in the western Languedoc. Above, Tania Monnou of L’Art & Gourmand. If you ever find...
Rashnet Bagdai
Nick on restaurants This man knows the financial truth behind at least 60 London restaurants. To be successful restaurants require numerous individuals with...
Nanyang soft shell crab
Nick on restaurants Nyonya cooking in London – though homesick Singaporeans may be disappointed, Nick warns. The press release was polite, well written...
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