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'正常已经不再存在,因为有过去的正常,现在的正常,可能还有未来的正常。'
法尔茨 (Pfalz) 酿酒师瓦伦丁·雷布霍尔茨 (Valentin Rebholz) 这句富有预见性的话恰当地总结了我对今年在威斯巴登 (Wiesbaden) 举行的VDP特级园 (VDP Grosses Gewächs, GG) 品鉴的感受。坦率地说,过去十年的大部分品鉴中,异常已经成为常态。德国葡萄园在2024年遭受了双重打击:从萨勒-温斯特鲁特 (Saale-Unstrut) 到巴登...