A tale of tannin – Giacomo Fenocchio

Although it may seem from my previous reports on the Langhe (see Aldo Conterno and Giuseppe Rinaldi) that I am trying to cram the recent history of Barolo into the easy dichotomy of 'new French oak v large old', it wouldn't do justice to how fundamental this difference in opinion was. While the debate has lost much of its edge nowadays, and with parties on both sides having moved undeniably to the middle of the spectrum, there was a time not long ago when opponents would cross the street to avoid having to face each other, so deeply felt...