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Auvergne – tasting notes

Tuesday 3 March 2020
Vines sloping down to the village of Boudes

Tasting notes on 41 wines from the dynamic but little-known Auvergne wine region in central France.

For the background to the region and its distinctive soils and topography, see Auvergne – quiet volcanoes and lively wines. My photo shows a vineyard in Boudes, the southernmost subregion in the Côtes d'Auvergne appellation, named after the village in the picture.

The wines are grouped by producer, in alphabetical order by (sur)name, whites before rosés before reds within each group.

Domaine Vincent Auzolle

Chardonnay on clay-limestone, from the commune of Cébazat...

100% Gamay on basalt. Nine months in tank.
Lightish cherry red...

100% Gamay on clay-limestone. Nine months in tank.
Darker hue...

70% Gamay, 30% Pinot Noir, unoaked – nine months in tank.
Deep...

Clos Luern

100% Gamay. Clay-limestone soils with large basalt inclusions ...

Tigerno means ‘boss’ in Auvergne dialect. Prephylloxera 127-year...

Domaine de la Croix Arpin / Pierre Goigoux

Chardonnay on clay-limestone with volcanic scree. Aged in...

40- to 50-year-old Gamay d’Auvergne (mass selection) and some...

50/50 Gamay and Pinot. Basalt scree on the hillside, south and...

The name means ‘cherry on the cake’. 100% Pinot Noir on clay...

Terra Vitis certification. This is a very old clone of Syrah...

Desprat St-Verny

809 is the clone, which is Chardonnay Musqué. Clay-limestone...

Chardonnay on clay-limestone, best parcels. Aged 12 months in...

Chardonnay. Smoky, dusty, herbal. Chalky and dry on the palate...

70% Gamay, 30% Pinot Noir. Mainly on basalt and pozzolan...

100-year-old Gamay on hard basalt slopes in Gergovie. 12–15...

Unoaked, 100% old-vine Gamay on hard basalt at 348 m. 18- to 20...

Lightish cherry red. Pretty and peppery on the nose, dusty and...

Jean-Baptiste Gougis

...

Chardonnay, from the Auvergne. 75% basalt soils; 25% clay...

From the Auvergne. 80% Gamay d’Auvergne and 20% Pinot Noir. 100%...

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