Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Competition – Matt Deller

Wednesday 26 September 2018 • 3 min read
Image

‘Matt Deller is a Master of Wine living and working in the Napa Valley. He is the chief operating officer for TOR Wines, cult producer of single vineyard Napa Cabernet and Chardonnay. He came into that position by taking the advice of a recruiter friend who suggested that he dream up his perfect job, then go ask for it. His prior job had given him the opportunity to taste a dizzying proportion of the wines of Napa Valley, and it was the TOR wines that always haunted him for the way they truly express the sense of place of each vineyard. Thankfully, after much persuading, founder and Napa legend Tor Kenward finally relented. But only after discovering that Matt was as much of a wine geek as he is, over a long lunch with historic Napa wines from Tor’s cellar.’ His (unedited) entry in our seminal wine competition follows.The picture shows him on the left of Mary Margaret McCamic MW and David Forer MW.

The first wine that opened the Aladdin’s cave of a lifetime of infatuation, was a glass of Bollinger Special Cuvee on my fifteenth birthday. The setting was perfect, I was dining on the patio of Harbourside restaurant overlooking Auckland harbor, eating fresh seafood with my family and a friend who fancies himself as a bit of a gourmand.

Thinking back, it would have been a dream social media moment. The setting was Instagram perfect. Describing those beguiling brioche, grilled nut, button mushroom, and toffee flavors of the wine that so seduced me would have made for an ideal tweet. The whole experience would have earned vigorous engagement on Facebook. Had I not been fifteen at the time, of course, as probably drinking wine at that age may have earned an outpouring of self-righteous vitriol.

I feel blessed to look back and remember the moment the way it was. Personal, private, pure pleasure. This revolution, or revelation in this case, was not televised. It was a moment. Shared between friends and family. Seminal and inspiring, undiluted by the need to earn “likes”.

By the time I was eighteen, any hope of settling into a “real job” after university was lost. I was going to try to make a living in the wine industry, which in New Zealand in the early 1990’s was on par with busking, stand-up comedy and ski-instructing as among the more dubious of long term career prospects.

I went to work for a mail order wine company, a very strange business to look back on today. Back then, potential patrons were expected to fill out a form, insert it into an envelope with a stamp, and send it off in the blind hope that sometime within the next two weeks, a case of wine will arrive. I recently ran the wine division of an e-commerce business, obsessed about bringing its page-load time down by milliseconds, and next day shipping was considered a day too slow.

Somehow, 25 years later I manage to make a nice living for my family, including my wife Amanda, two sons and our dog Lani, by indulging my lifelong love affair with wine, triggered by that first glass of Bollinger. Synchronistically, I’ve had the good fortune to indulge in many more glasses from that admirable house through their support of the Institute of Masters of Wine.

I think that first experience burned into my psyche, influencing my prevailing wine beliefs to this day. I believe that occasion and friends enhance wine far more than any food pairing. The wines that move me are those with true sense of place, which is what inspired me to help run TOR Wines in Napa Valley, with enough diversity of climate, topography and geology to keep me constantly inspired.

I’ve travelled all over the world, judging wine competitions, speaking at various symposia, buying and selling wine; all serving only to continue to fuel a passion that may ebb and flow but never really diminish. Of course, today, I slavishly document my movements on the mandatory social media channels. I wonder now that we have become our own paparazzi, when we are putting so much out there these days, are we really taking it all in?

Become a member to continue reading
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 288,912 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,879 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 288,912 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,879 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 288,912 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,879 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 288,912 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,879 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Australian wine tanks and grapevines
Free for all 世界上充斥着无人问津的葡萄酒。本文的一个版本由金融时报 发表。上图为南澳大利亚的葡萄酒储罐群。 读到关于 当前威士忌过剩...
Meursault in the snow - Jon Wyand
Free for all 我们在这个充满挑战的年份中发布的所有内容。在 这里找到我们发布的所有葡萄酒评论。上图为博讷丘 (Côte de Beaune) 的默尔索...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all 但是马德拉酒,这种伟大的加强酒之一,在这个非凡的大西洋岛屿上还能在旅游开发中存活多久?本文的一个版本由《金融时报》 发表。另见...
2brouettes in Richbourg,Vosne-Romanee
Free for all 关于英国酒商提供 2024 年勃艮第期酒的信息。上图为一对用于燃烧修剪枝条的"brouettes"手推车,摄于沃恩-罗曼尼 (Vosne...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Ryan Pass
Tasting articles Some promising representatives of the next generation of California wine brands. Above, w inemaker Ryan Pass of Pass Wines (photo...
The Marrone family, parents and three daughters
Wines of the week An incredibly refreshing Nebbiolo from a sustainably-minded family that sells for as little as €17.50, $24.94, £22.50. - - -...
Aerial view of various Asian ingredients
Inside information Part five of an eight-part series on how to pair wine with Asian flavours, adapted from Richard’s book. Click here...
Vineyards of Domaine Vaccelli on Corsica
Inside information Once on the fringes, Corsica has emerged as one of France’s most compelling wine regions. Paris-based writer Yasha Lysenko explores...
Les Halles de Narbonne
Tasting articles Ninety-nine wines showing the dazzling diversity of this often-underestimated region. Part 1 was published yesterday. See also Languedoc whites –...
September sunset Domaine de Montrose
Tasting articles Tam thinks so – and has nearly 200 red-wine recommendations to show for it. Come back tomorrow for the second...
Vietnamese pho at Med
Nick on restaurants Nick highlights something the Brits lack but the French have in spades – and it’s not French cuisine. This week...
South Africa fires in the Overberg sent by Malu Lambert and wine-news-5 logo
Wine news in 5 另外还有法国禁止有机葡萄栽培使用含铜杀菌剂的最新消息。上图为南非奥弗贝格 (Overberg) 的火灾,由马卢·兰伯特 (Malu...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.