25th anniversary Tokyo tasting | The Jancis Robinson Story

Competition – Matt Deller

Wednesday 26 September 2018 • 3 min read
Image

‘Matt Deller is a Master of Wine living and working in the Napa Valley. He is the chief operating officer for TOR Wines, cult producer of single vineyard Napa Cabernet and Chardonnay. He came into that position by taking the advice of a recruiter friend who suggested that he dream up his perfect job, then go ask for it. His prior job had given him the opportunity to taste a dizzying proportion of the wines of Napa Valley, and it was the TOR wines that always haunted him for the way they truly express the sense of place of each vineyard. Thankfully, after much persuading, founder and Napa legend Tor Kenward finally relented. But only after discovering that Matt was as much of a wine geek as he is, over a long lunch with historic Napa wines from Tor’s cellar.’ His (unedited) entry in our seminal wine competition follows.The picture shows him on the left of Mary Margaret McCamic MW and David Forer MW.

The first wine that opened the Aladdin’s cave of a lifetime of infatuation, was a glass of Bollinger Special Cuvee on my fifteenth birthday. The setting was perfect, I was dining on the patio of Harbourside restaurant overlooking Auckland harbor, eating fresh seafood with my family and a friend who fancies himself as a bit of a gourmand.

Thinking back, it would have been a dream social media moment. The setting was Instagram perfect. Describing those beguiling brioche, grilled nut, button mushroom, and toffee flavors of the wine that so seduced me would have made for an ideal tweet. The whole experience would have earned vigorous engagement on Facebook. Had I not been fifteen at the time, of course, as probably drinking wine at that age may have earned an outpouring of self-righteous vitriol.

I feel blessed to look back and remember the moment the way it was. Personal, private, pure pleasure. This revolution, or revelation in this case, was not televised. It was a moment. Shared between friends and family. Seminal and inspiring, undiluted by the need to earn “likes”.

By the time I was eighteen, any hope of settling into a “real job” after university was lost. I was going to try to make a living in the wine industry, which in New Zealand in the early 1990’s was on par with busking, stand-up comedy and ski-instructing as among the more dubious of long term career prospects.

I went to work for a mail order wine company, a very strange business to look back on today. Back then, potential patrons were expected to fill out a form, insert it into an envelope with a stamp, and send it off in the blind hope that sometime within the next two weeks, a case of wine will arrive. I recently ran the wine division of an e-commerce business, obsessed about bringing its page-load time down by milliseconds, and next day shipping was considered a day too slow.

Somehow, 25 years later I manage to make a nice living for my family, including my wife Amanda, two sons and our dog Lani, by indulging my lifelong love affair with wine, triggered by that first glass of Bollinger. Synchronistically, I’ve had the good fortune to indulge in many more glasses from that admirable house through their support of the Institute of Masters of Wine.

I think that first experience burned into my psyche, influencing my prevailing wine beliefs to this day. I believe that occasion and friends enhance wine far more than any food pairing. The wines that move me are those with true sense of place, which is what inspired me to help run TOR Wines in Napa Valley, with enough diversity of climate, topography and geology to keep me constantly inspired.

I’ve travelled all over the world, judging wine competitions, speaking at various symposia, buying and selling wine; all serving only to continue to fuel a passion that may ebb and flow but never really diminish. Of course, today, I slavishly document my movements on the mandatory social media channels. I wonder now that we have become our own paparazzi, when we are putting so much out there these days, are we really taking it all in?

选择方案
JancisRobinson.com 25th anniversaty logo

Go for gold with your wine knowledge.

The world just came together in Italy – and there’s never been a better time to explore its wines and beyond.

For a limited time, get 20% off all annual memberships by entering promo code GOLD2026 at checkout. Offer ends 12 March. Valid for new members only.

会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 290,241 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,942 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 290,241 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,942 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 290,241 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,942 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 290,241 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,942 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Lytton Springs vines
Free for all 如果你在寻找个性、独特性和真正的意义,那就选择仙粉黛 (Zin),来自在美国历史另一个时代种植的葡萄藤。本文的简化版本由金融时报发表。...
Ch Ormes de Pez
Free for all 对10年陈酿的2016年份酒款的概述。请参阅关于 右岸红酒和甜白酒以及 左岸红酒的品鉴文章。本文的一个版本由金融时报发表。 另请参阅...
Ferran and JR at Barcelona Wine Week
Free for all 费兰 (Ferran) 和詹西斯 (Jancis) 试图用六杯酒来总结当今西班牙葡萄酒的精彩。本文的简化版本由金融时报 发表。...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all 祝贺最新一批葡萄酒大师,今日由葡萄酒大师学院宣布。 葡萄酒大师学院 (IMW) 今日宣布...

More from JancisRobinson.com

 Juan Carlos Sancha in the Cerro la Isa vineyard with mule
Tasting articles A focus on single-village, single-vineyard and single-variety Rioja. Above, Juan Carlos Sancha and his mule working the Cerro la Isa...
Doppo wine list
Nick on restaurants 伦敦苏豪区葡萄酒爱好者的瑰宝。上图显示的只是其庞大酒单的一部分(暂时被偷走了)。 我在迪恩街多波 (Doppo)...
Freixenet winery in Spain
Wine news in 5 还有德国亨克尔 (Henkell) 集团收购传奇卡瓦 (Cava) 公司弗雷斯内特 (Freixenet)(上图...
Ferran with many bottles of Rioja tasted at the Consejo Regulador
Inside information 费兰 (Ferran) 发现里奥哈 (Rioja) 在其作为西班牙顶级葡萄酒产区的百年历史中,依然充满活力。 2025年,里奥哈...
Cava Bertha family
Wines of the week 一款来自西班牙的起泡酒,在舌尖上轻盈而精致地舞动。售价低至11.95欧元、15.54英镑、19.99美元。 我曾经和一只名叫贝尔塔...
old Zin vine at Dry Creek Vineyard
Tasting articles 在加州葡萄酒中挑选出价值和真正的兴趣。更多内容请关注周六。上图为干溪酒庄 (Dry Creek Vineyard) 的一株老仙粉黛...
Sam tasting wine for MBT part 4
Mission Blind Tasting 如何评估你在一口葡萄酒中感受和品尝到的一切。 上周的MBT文章专注于评估葡萄酒的"香气"——即香味的存在和强度...
Matthew Argyros
Tasting articles 三十七款葡萄酒为投资圣托里尼珍贵而受威胁的葡萄园提供了有力论证。 去年,在听到圣托里尼作为葡萄酒产区即将消失的传言后(例如,参见 圣托里尼...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.