How well does wine age?

On Saturday I’ll be surveying how the wine scene has changed over the last 30 years, so I have been feeling generally rather retrospective. The timing of a recent London tasting organised by Scottish wine importers Alliance Wine was therefore particularly welcome, offering as it did historic verticals of wines from six of its most admirable suppliers, Pazo de Señorans in Rías Baixas, Domaine des Baumard in Savennières, Stella Bella in Margaret River, Paul Hobbs in northern California, Domaine A in Tasmania and Celler de Capçanes in Montsant. Perhaps because Alliance has more than its fair share of Masters of...