The stellar ascent of Nebbiolo, especially in its most revered Barolo and Barbaresco form, is beginning to create serious problems for its producers. The combination of a string of good to outstanding vintages and a, perhaps temporary, cooling of interest in en primeur bordeaux and scarcity of burgundy has importers and collectors turning their attention to these serious and seriously long-lived wines. But it has also triggered enormous interest from those who want to cash in on Nebbiolo’s global success.
The writing was on the...
