The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

An Italian coronadiary – day 19

• 5 min read
The heart of San Polino estate

In her final diary entry from San Polino in Montalcino, Katia Nussbaum asks if we are willing to change. Click on the Katia's diary tag for days 1–18. See also this thread about the diary in our Members' forum.

Day 19: 28 March 2020

This is the last day of my coronadiary. 19 days to mark COVID-19.

Everyone has come in to work. Tini in the winery washing the barrels, preparing for racking the wines, Gigi and Avni deciding how and what, Daniel banging nails into poles, me preparing the shipment for Canada.

Everyone is self-distancing from me. My Aunt Ruthi gave me her Romanian (1930s) cure for a cough. Peeled and cut onion soaked in hot water with 2 teaspoons of honey. I don’t think I’ll have proximity issues today.

The weather is cold but sunny. We will work, have lunch, work and then everyone will go home.

The end of day 19, similar to tomorrow and tomorrow, until this all ends. I have no more diary to write, just a list of jobs and numbers of newly infected (decreasing, we hope) and deaths.

We all read the news. We know the US is in deep trouble, we know that Trump is floundering, rude and uneducated, we know Boris Johnson has begged him for ventilators. We know prime minister Conte has begged Europe for money.

What is the symbolism of 19 days?, Gigi asks.

For me 19 days symbolises the randomness of this event. Random in that it just happened. The universe is random. Of course, we know it has a logic of its own, rules of physics and chemistry that tie everything together, etc, etc, but I think many of us are experiencing this moment with surprise and astonishment. Or maybe, we knew it could come but, like children, had to wait for the punishment to feel the full implications of our limitations, and endure the consequences of:

  1. the dysfunctional world that we, ourselves, have forged and
  2. what it means to be alive and die in a world full of other living and non-living beings.

If it hadn’t been for Jancis Robinson, via Walter Speller, I wouldn’t have written, let alone published, these 19 days, I would have given up what was at the start a personal enterprise, as I have found it hard work and time-consuming. I am not used to writing.

Yet I am so grateful to have been given the space, and to have made the commitment.

My unprofessionally written coronadiary has recorded 19 unique days in the life of my family, friends and San Polino. It has spanned continents, stretching from Italy (us), to Germany (sister), Denmark (stepdaughter Maya), the UK (son Giulio and stepdaughter Shani, friend Tina) and Israel (Aunt Ruthi). To India (friends), the US (Yasmin and other friends) and Mexico (Sofia’s family).

The story has been the same: of people coping, in a state of shock. Worried about the future, worried for their jobs, worried for their friends and family. Watching the world in amazement and fear.

And ours are the easier stories, we who can weather the storm, because we have enough money, big enough houses, and enough to eat. What about the others?

This diary will have become boring because life in lockdown is ‘boring’ in the recounting.

Yet I hope it has given you a flavour of our life here, as a winery struggling to cope with the current crisis.

I didn’t write this to push the winery ‘brand’, it wasn’t in my mind. So please do not misunderstand my motives.

I am telling you this because it is true.

I wrote it to introspect and then communicate, because I feel so strongly that something has to change in the world. And if it doesn’t happen, then I will change myself, along with a whole load of other people.

And if many of us change we can elicit a response from businesses, which in turn can put pressure on governments.

I have witnessed the potential of a grass-roots change over the last year or two in Montalcino, where around 30% (+?) of wineries are either organic, or in conversion to organics.

The companies who produce products for vineyards, such as pesticides and fungicides, are now having to upgrade their offers to include ‘green’ alternatives, which were extremely difficult to find on the market 20 years ago. And these new products are proving both popular and effective.

Universities and labs all over the world are researching what is known as ‘biological pest control’, ie combatting ecological problems in agriculture with native species to act as pests, predators or simply to fill up ecological space. This research is being funded by money from the agro-pharma corporations and by governments.

As such we can all become conduits for change. It is all we have left. Change in attitude and manner. The personal is political.

Corporations and governments will not make change until the pressure is on, but we have seen that legislation can be passed rapidly. And money can be found to fund initiatives.

And with the lockdown we have seen that people’s attitudes can change overnight, when the reason is compelling enough.

So my coronadiary can be seen as an appeal, as an anguished cry for help.

None of us is perfect but we can change. And any ideas are welcome. They have to come from us.

I understand that this last Day (19) will be published on 1 April … and I wonder, is this some great horrible cosmic April fool’s joke? [Definitely not - JR]

Can this be the same world that we went to sleep in a month ago?

Did we make a quantum leap, and fall into a parallel universe? Recognisable but extraordinarily different?

Or maybe we will wake up tomorrow and find ourselves back before all this happened? Back to the Future. How would we do things differently?

Pure fantasy. There was no quantum leap, and there will be no Back to the Future.

Time will pass. We will get through this, yet have to wake up to some hard choices.

How can we change things? Now that we have seen that illness and tragedy know no borders, class distinction or colour.

Will we be able to look at our dysfunctional world, join the dots and search for solutions?

Will we invest in State infrastructure? Hospitals, schools and housing and work generally reserved for women?

Will we make sure that billionaires cannot exist?

Will we stop deforestation?

Will we stop pumping chemicals into our soils and the atmosphere?

Will we seriously monitor biodiversity and make this a priority for town and agricultural planning?

Will we ration air travel? Car miles? Meat? Clothes?

Subsidise rail travel?

Will we find a way of cancelling national debts for emerging economies?

Will we allow these emerging economies equal playing fields in global trading markets?

Will we stop using fossil fuels and invest in green energy?

Will we make throwing away plastic a crime?

None of this will solve the problems of viruses, illness and ultimately death. We all must die, that much is certain. But we can re-balance things to make sure we all have the same chance of life, and ultimately survival. And we can make sure that we do not become extinct as a species through some (personal) stupidity of our own making.

Today 889 have died in Italy. I am so sorry, so very, very sorry.

Katia Nussbaum in San Polino vineyard
Katia Nussbaum in San Polino's biodynamically farmed vineyards in happier times last summer
选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 296,095 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,112 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 296,095 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,112 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Ronan Sayburn MS, Sarah Abbott MW and Hannah Tovey at Icons tastings 2026
Free for all 从世界各地挑选 27 款霞多丽 (Chardonnay) "标志性"酒款,呈献给 18 位认证品鉴师……本文的一个版本发表于金融时报 。另见...
WWC26 post-submission graphic
Free for all 绝妙的搭配——有如此多的选择!JR 团队向所有人致以诚挚的感谢。 今年的 葡萄酒写作大赛打破了所有记录,收到了超过 400 份参赛作品...
Kullabergs Vingård © Terra Skåne/Jan Kivissar
Free for all 根据星级酒单 (Star Wine List) 的评选,这是一份比大多数指南更具权威性的榜单。上图,美食与葡萄酒行家们齐聚阿里尔德酒庄...
Mont Ventoux seen from Les Deux Cols at dawn
Free for all 南部并非全是强劲的歌海娜 (Grenache)。本文的一个版本发表于《金融时报》(Financial Times)。 另见...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Symington 2024 vintage ports
Tasting articles 年份波特酒的卓越年份。难怪每家波特酒庄都在发布一款或多款此类波特酒,这是七年来的首次全面宣布。上图为辛明顿家族酒业 (Symington...
Brit Nat tasting 2026 by Em Drake
Tasting articles 英伦摇滚靠边站;英国天然气泡酒 (Brít-Nat) 带着开瓶盖的争议和前卫态度来了。 亨利 (Henry) 写道 在即将成为传奇的...
Ried Kellerberg in autumn
Wines of the week 来自奥地利的一款充满石灰气息、活泼清新的白葡萄酒中的夏日梦想,售价 €9.90, £18.37, $19.99 。上图为凯勒贝格...
Diemersdal winemaking team
Tasting articles 在英国及更远地区可购得的优质佳酿——包括一些天然低酒精度葡萄酒。上图,从左至右: 雷昂·里希特 (Reon Richter)、莉娜·科茨...
Alder Springs vineyard
Tasting articles 加州一些最令人兴奋的葡萄酒来自一个远离其他任何地方的葡萄园。上图为阿尔德斯普林斯 (Alder Springs) 葡萄园(图片来源: 娜塔莉...
Judges for Chardonnay Icons at 2026 London Wine Fair
Tasting articles 澳大利亚和英格兰在今年伦敦葡萄酒博览会 (London Wine Fair) 的标志性葡萄酒盲品中胜出,评审团由上图中的葡萄酒专业人士组成。...
Poggio di Sotto vineyard
Tasting articles 如果您欣赏能够反映年份和风土的葡萄酒,那么顶级的 2020 年份布鲁内洛 (Brunello) 非常值得购买。上图为索托山庄 (Poggio...
Wine & War book cover
Book reviews 提醒我们葡萄酒在冲突时期恢复人性、幽默和希望的力量。 葡萄酒与战争 法国人、纳粹和法国最伟大宝藏的争夺战 唐和佩蒂·克拉德斯特鲁普 (Don...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.