Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting

An Italian coronadiary – day 19

• 5 min read
The heart of San Polino estate

In her final diary entry from San Polino in Montalcino, Katia Nussbaum asks if we are willing to change. Click on the Katia's diary tag for days 1–18. See also this thread about the diary in our Members' forum.

Day 19: 28 March 2020

This is the last day of my coronadiary. 19 days to mark COVID-19.

Everyone has come in to work. Tini in the winery washing the barrels, preparing for racking the wines, Gigi and Avni deciding how and what, Daniel banging nails into poles, me preparing the shipment for Canada.

Everyone is self-distancing from me. My Aunt Ruthi gave me her Romanian (1930s) cure for a cough. Peeled and cut onion soaked in hot water with 2 teaspoons of honey. I don’t think I’ll have proximity issues today.

The weather is cold but sunny. We will work, have lunch, work and then everyone will go home.

The end of day 19, similar to tomorrow and tomorrow, until this all ends. I have no more diary to write, just a list of jobs and numbers of newly infected (decreasing, we hope) and deaths.

We all read the news. We know the US is in deep trouble, we know that Trump is floundering, rude and uneducated, we know Boris Johnson has begged him for ventilators. We know prime minister Conte has begged Europe for money.

What is the symbolism of 19 days?, Gigi asks.

For me 19 days symbolises the randomness of this event. Random in that it just happened. The universe is random. Of course, we know it has a logic of its own, rules of physics and chemistry that tie everything together, etc, etc, but I think many of us are experiencing this moment with surprise and astonishment. Or maybe, we knew it could come but, like children, had to wait for the punishment to feel the full implications of our limitations, and endure the consequences of:

  1. the dysfunctional world that we, ourselves, have forged and
  2. what it means to be alive and die in a world full of other living and non-living beings.

If it hadn’t been for Jancis Robinson, via Walter Speller, I wouldn’t have written, let alone published, these 19 days, I would have given up what was at the start a personal enterprise, as I have found it hard work and time-consuming. I am not used to writing.

Yet I am so grateful to have been given the space, and to have made the commitment.

My unprofessionally written coronadiary has recorded 19 unique days in the life of my family, friends and San Polino. It has spanned continents, stretching from Italy (us), to Germany (sister), Denmark (stepdaughter Maya), the UK (son Giulio and stepdaughter Shani, friend Tina) and Israel (Aunt Ruthi). To India (friends), the US (Yasmin and other friends) and Mexico (Sofia’s family).

The story has been the same: of people coping, in a state of shock. Worried about the future, worried for their jobs, worried for their friends and family. Watching the world in amazement and fear.

And ours are the easier stories, we who can weather the storm, because we have enough money, big enough houses, and enough to eat. What about the others?

This diary will have become boring because life in lockdown is ‘boring’ in the recounting.

Yet I hope it has given you a flavour of our life here, as a winery struggling to cope with the current crisis.

I didn’t write this to push the winery ‘brand’, it wasn’t in my mind. So please do not misunderstand my motives.

I am telling you this because it is true.

I wrote it to introspect and then communicate, because I feel so strongly that something has to change in the world. And if it doesn’t happen, then I will change myself, along with a whole load of other people.

And if many of us change we can elicit a response from businesses, which in turn can put pressure on governments.

I have witnessed the potential of a grass-roots change over the last year or two in Montalcino, where around 30% (+?) of wineries are either organic, or in conversion to organics.

The companies who produce products for vineyards, such as pesticides and fungicides, are now having to upgrade their offers to include ‘green’ alternatives, which were extremely difficult to find on the market 20 years ago. And these new products are proving both popular and effective.

Universities and labs all over the world are researching what is known as ‘biological pest control’, ie combatting ecological problems in agriculture with native species to act as pests, predators or simply to fill up ecological space. This research is being funded by money from the agro-pharma corporations and by governments.

As such we can all become conduits for change. It is all we have left. Change in attitude and manner. The personal is political.

Corporations and governments will not make change until the pressure is on, but we have seen that legislation can be passed rapidly. And money can be found to fund initiatives.

And with the lockdown we have seen that people’s attitudes can change overnight, when the reason is compelling enough.

So my coronadiary can be seen as an appeal, as an anguished cry for help.

None of us is perfect but we can change. And any ideas are welcome. They have to come from us.

I understand that this last Day (19) will be published on 1 April … and I wonder, is this some great horrible cosmic April fool’s joke? [Definitely not - JR]

Can this be the same world that we went to sleep in a month ago?

Did we make a quantum leap, and fall into a parallel universe? Recognisable but extraordinarily different?

Or maybe we will wake up tomorrow and find ourselves back before all this happened? Back to the Future. How would we do things differently?

Pure fantasy. There was no quantum leap, and there will be no Back to the Future.

Time will pass. We will get through this, yet have to wake up to some hard choices.

How can we change things? Now that we have seen that illness and tragedy know no borders, class distinction or colour.

Will we be able to look at our dysfunctional world, join the dots and search for solutions?

Will we invest in State infrastructure? Hospitals, schools and housing and work generally reserved for women?

Will we make sure that billionaires cannot exist?

Will we stop deforestation?

Will we stop pumping chemicals into our soils and the atmosphere?

Will we seriously monitor biodiversity and make this a priority for town and agricultural planning?

Will we ration air travel? Car miles? Meat? Clothes?

Subsidise rail travel?

Will we find a way of cancelling national debts for emerging economies?

Will we allow these emerging economies equal playing fields in global trading markets?

Will we stop using fossil fuels and invest in green energy?

Will we make throwing away plastic a crime?

None of this will solve the problems of viruses, illness and ultimately death. We all must die, that much is certain. But we can re-balance things to make sure we all have the same chance of life, and ultimately survival. And we can make sure that we do not become extinct as a species through some (personal) stupidity of our own making.

Today 889 have died in Italy. I am so sorry, so very, very sorry.

Katia Nussbaum in San Polino vineyard
Katia Nussbaum in San Polino's biodynamically farmed vineyards in happier times last summer
选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 294,756 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,079 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 294,756 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,079 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 294,756 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,079 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 294,756 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,079 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Thomas Walk Vineyard in Kinsale
Free for all Jancis is put in her place, by the hybrid grapes of the Emerald Isle. A shorter version of this article...
Ungrafted monastrell vines in Jumilla
Free for all 4 June 2026 In advance of the 2026 Old Vine Conference on 8 June, we’re republishing this overview of our...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all 随着我们的萨姆·科尔-约翰逊 (Sam Cole-Johnson) 和其他216人准备参加下周的MW考试...
The Bull interior
Free for all 在英格兰乡村享受美酒和馅饼。 查尔伯里 (Charlbury) 几乎是从伦敦向西逃离时遇到的科茨沃尔德 (Cotswolds)...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier bottle and glass of wine outdoors, on table with books
Wines of the week 一款适合夏日的丝滑白葡萄酒,广泛供应,价格仅从 8.99美元,20.90英镑 起。 这是纳帕酒庄松岭 (Pine Ridge) 的隐藏爆款...
Split Rail vineyard
Tasting articles 加利福尼亚最西端葡萄园探索系列第四部分。上图为科拉利托斯 (Corralitos) 的分轨葡萄园 (Split Rail vineyard)...
Fernando Mora MW and Mario López of Bodegas Frontonio
Tasting articles 深入了解萨拉戈萨三个最重要的项目。上图,弗朗托尼奥酒庄 (Bodegas Frontonio) 的费尔南多·莫拉 MW (Fernando...
Acered vineyard
Tasting articles 为庆祝阿拉贡即将进入即将出版的 《世界葡萄酒地图集》 ,费兰 (Ferran) 探索萨拉戈萨的葡萄酒。上图为卡拉塔尤德 (Calatayud...
Alexandre Delétraz's (Cave des Amandiers) vineyards in Valais @ Leif Carlsson
Tasting articles 红酒、白酒、新酒、陈酒——瑞士葡萄酒在多样性和美味方面毫不匮乏。你只需要找到它们……上图为亚历山大·德莱特拉兹 (Alexandre...
Mt Ararat overlooking vineyards
Tasting articles 喝更多雷司令 (Riesling) 的理由;最佳购买选择;以及远方发现 – 一个月品鉴的亮点。上图为亚美尼亚的阿拉拉特山 (Mount...
Dar Sinclair, Tangier
Don't quote me 本月海外旅行占了很大比重,包括上图俯瞰丹吉尔 (Tangier) 的别墅。但这远非全部。 我希望你注意到我在年初几乎没有旅行...
Sally Abé of Teal
Nick on restaurants 伦敦东区餐厅界令人兴奋的新成员。上图,萨莉·阿贝 (Sally Abé)。 萨莉·阿贝 (Sally Abé) 的新餐厅蒂尔 (Teal)...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.