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Diners in Hawksmoor restaurant, London, in the daytime
Nick on restaurants When the world likes to eat out

Nick reports on a global dining trend. Above, diners at Hawksmoor in London. My frequent conversations with our restaurateur son invariably reveal to me the enormous changes that have taken...

London Shell Co trio
Nick on restaurants Wine and fish in Highgate
Vietnamese pho at Med
Nick on restaurants More pho, please

Nick highlights something the Brits lack but the French have in spades – and it’s not French cuisine. This week – and with apologies to BBC’s The Fast Show –...

More London restaurants

The Devonshire
Nick on restaurants An ambitious new enterprise in the heart of London. ‘It’s got to be big and it’s got to be central.’...
the exterior of Chez Bruce
Nick on restaurants A beacon of fine food and wine in south London. Eleven years ago, shortly before our son Will became a...
St Pancras
Nick on restaurants Nick finally reports from London! Above, the Victorian monument that is St Pancras as seen by a drone. The Midland...
Pavyllon brigade
Nick on restaurants Three very different combinations of restaurant and hotel considered. Whether you see them as ‘hotel dining rooms’ or ‘restaurants within...
Ana Dias
Nick on restaurants Restaurant rules, and a lamented London closure. As soon as we walked onto the shady terrace of the Grand Café...
Henry Harris
Nick on restaurants Long-standing readers of this column may be aware of Nick’s equally long-standing professional admiration for the chef Henry Harris, above...
Sollip's Woongchul Park
Nick on restaurants How two chefs (eventually) pleased their parents. Never underestimate the influence of a properly made baguette. That is the only...
Hispi cabbage
Nick on restaurants A vital cabbage question answered, with a surprise sustainability angle. Recently, while looking over a menu in a restaurant, Jancis...
London's Chinatown
Nick on restaurants The inside story of London's Chinatown. Its main thoroughfare Gerrard Street is seen above. It was just before 1 pm...
Chef Alex Dilling
Nick on restaurants 25 July Jancis adds It seems that soon after this article was published, this small, 11-table restaurant was overwhelmed by...
London skyline in a wine bottle
Free for all What it says on the tin, updated for this summer’s influx of visitors. This article has long proved especially popular...
Nick Lander and Martin Lam at L'Escargot in the 1980s
Nick on restaurants Some reflections on changes to the hospitality industry over the last few decades. Above, Nick with chef Martin Lam at...
Parakeet dishes
Nick on restaurants A great new arrival in north London. Assorted dishes from its kitchen are pictured above by Justin De Souza. London...
Rambutan kitchen
Nick on restaurants An authentic Sri Lankan restaurant in London's Borough Market is proving extremely popular. Were it not for the COVID-19 pandemic...
Gouqi aubergine
Nick on restaurants An ambitious new Chinese restaurant on Trafalgar Square. ‘What’s important about restaurants in the West End’, my friend proclaimed shortly...
The Ritz dining room, London
Nick on restaurants Gut surgery, followed by gut satisfaction in one of London's most distinctive dining rooms. It has become something of a...
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