The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

Naughty French

• 1 min read
Image

See the resulting thread in members' forum.

You know how European wine producers and non Europeans have always fought for the moral high ground? 

Europeans accuse New World winemakers of confecting their wines by adding acid and water (in the form of irrigation) whereas their own wines are oh-so-natural because they depend solely on God's irrigation (rain) and, until recently when global warming began to make its presence felt, European wine producers were never allowed to add acid. 

Well, relatively recently European laws have been changed to allow  producers in Europe to add acid, just so long as they don't add both acid and sugar to the same lot of wine, which is easy to fiddle, as one Burgundian vigneron pointed out to me, by simply adding acid to half of a lot of wine and sugar to the other.  So much for the moral high ground.

And now that European summers seem to be getting hotter and drier (see South of France swelters, for example), irrigation is becoming more and more common in Europe. In places such as Spain, Austria, even Germany now, at least growers go to the trouble of getting the rules changed to allow it, and generally use very sparing amounts of water via careful drip-irrigation systems. 

overheadirrigation

But in the Languedoc, where the somewhat tenebrous picture above was taken last week, some farmers in the lower, flatter, most ordinary vineyards have always simply turned the tap on when they think they can increase the volume of their crop and therefore bank balance.

In a world that is becoming increasingly short of water, it seems pretty crazy to irrigate by overhead spray to me. It was explained to me when I expressed surprise at how common overhead irrigation is in the Okanagan Valley in western Canada that this system has the great advantage of helping them stave off frost damage in cold weather. I can understand that. But what possible justification there can be to spray vast amounts of precious water into the air, as above, in temperatures in the 30s C/90s F when much of it must evaporate and be wasted eludes me.  Frost is not a problem in the Languedoc!

选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 296,677 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,127 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 296,677 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,127 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Emptied plates and glasses after a meal by Jason Lowe
Free for all 路边餐馆的乐趣,作者:查理·吉奥根 (Charlie Geoghegan)。照片由杰森·洛 (Jason Lowe) 拍摄。...
Opus One winery
Free for all 首个跨大西洋合资企业作品一号 (Opus One) 涉及20世纪葡萄酒界的标志性人物。本文的一个版本发表于《金融时报》(Financial...
Old Vine Registry new seal 100+ years two versions
Free for all 突发新闻!老藤登记处 (The Old Vine Registry) 正在打破记录、突破障碍并开辟新天地。现在,老藤登记处标识正式推出。...
Ronan Sayburn MS, Sarah Abbott MW and Hannah Tovey at Icons tastings 2026
Free for all 从世界各地挑选 27 款霞多丽 (Chardonnay) "标志性"酒款,呈献给 18 位认证品鉴师……本文的一个版本发表于金融时报 。另见...

More from JancisRobinson.com

cheddars, apples and fruity red wine
Inside information Real cheddar for real wine. By some small miracle I manage to locate the one with four functioning wheels. My...
Monty on the beach at Betty’s Bay, near Hemel-en Aarde
Tasting articles Coolness and light in bottles from some of South Africa’s best producers. Above, Monty enjoys the cool surf in Betty’s...
Chris Keets (left) and Banele Vanele (right)
Tasting articles 证明南非仍然是最值得探索的葡萄酒国家之一。上图为天气报告 (Weather Report) 的克里斯·基特 (Chris Keets)(左...
Lasseter Trinity Ridge Vineyard - Michael Housewright photography
Tasting articles 历史悠久的葡萄园、高海拔、火山土壤和有机种植的结合使这个鲜为人知的 AVA 脱颖而出。上图为 拉塞特酒庄 (Lasseter Winery)...
Cotta vineyard
Tasting articles 来自热浪年份的诱人清新且易饮的葡萄酒。索蒂马诺 (Sottimano) 从科塔 (Cottà) 特级园(如上图所示...
view towards Barbaresco
Tasting articles 来自 2022 年份及更早年份的葡萄酒证明了巴巴莱斯科的陈年潜力。 巴巴莱斯科 2022 年份的晚期发布打破了两个误解—...
Constantino Ramos
Wines of the week 一款由前化学家以精确态度和葡萄藤语者灵魂酿造的绿酒 (Vinho Verde) 白葡萄酒。售价 23 美元起,22 英镑起。上图为拉莫斯...
rosé picnic by Tamlyn Currin
Tasting articles 25种在炎热中保持清爽的方式。 上周欧洲经历了有记录以来最严重的6月热浪;本周,美国东海岸各城市将打破高温记录。在这种炎热中喝什么?水...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.