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那是 1994 年的夏天,我第一次见到德国美因茨,我的访问恰逢前所未有的热浪。我准备得很糟糕,只会三个词——bitte、Bier、wunderbar——还有一箱太过温暖的衣服,我花了一段时间才在词汇中加入Wein这个词。
当我最终学会这个词时,那是因为我在城市各处找到了许多Weinstuben(酒馆)。这些是低矮的半木结构建筑,外面有锻铁装饰,内部光线昏暗、质朴,供应的当地葡萄酒非常有限,大多要么寡淡要么过于厚重。Weinstube字面意思是"酒室",这些大多是家庭经营的场所,人们来这里分享一瓶酒,一直逗留到深夜。
许多传统酒馆至今仍然...