It will come as no surprise that many of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape whites are weighty, honeyed, opulent, broad-shouldered and textured wines. Yet alongside that, many possess real elegance and drinkability, which was a welcome surprise. There is no shortage of high-scoring wines to choose from but Ch de Beaucastel’s Vieilles Vignes Roussanne and Le Clos de Caillou Les Safres particularly impressed me.
The 18 white offerings from Vacqueyras were...