Xeniya Volosnikova writes Xeniya Volosnikova is a wine marketer and communications specialist from Kazakhstan. Her interest and passion for wine brought her to Europe, where she earned MSc in wine tourism management and has finished DipWSET in Wines, alongside graduating as Weinakademiker and Italian Wine Ambassador among other titles. Xeniya enjoys writing about wine, doing marketing research and organizing wine events. She’s the host of recently launched Introvert Wine Podcast and has a bold dream of becoming the first Master of Wine from Kazakhstan.
An ode to Telti-Kuruk
Unusual.
The first time I tried Telti-Kuruk was in 2017, in Kazakhstan, at a portfolio tasting by Shabo winery from Ukraine. The brand was looking to expand its export reach, and it made sense to start with neighboring markets, especially since there were already years of trade and relations between the two countries. The image of the wines from Ukraine was, unfortunately, flawed by decades of producing very average volume wines for the Soviet Union consumption, and it was refreshing to discover something of great quality and different from what I expected.
To be honest, I did not even know what to expect. It was my first time tasting a Ukrainian wine, and my first encounter with the Telti-Kuruk grape. Ever since that tasting, I’ve been curious to learn more. In a world dominated by Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon, finding something unusual is always exciting. As a linguist, I was also intrigued by the grape’s name - clearly rooted in the Turkic language family rather than Slavic. I had a feeling there was a story behind it.
Telti-Kuruk is considered indigenous to Ukraine, with most plantings in the southern regions. The name translates to “fox tail” in older forms of Turkish; today, the equivalent would be tilki kuyruğu. Various spellings exist, including Telti Kourouk, Telti Kyryk, and Tilky Rairuk. Despite sharing the same translation, it has no genetic connection to Italy’s Coda di Volpe (“fox tail” in Italian) - the similarity likely refers to the shape of the grape bunch in both cases.
The earliest mentions of Telti-Kuruk date back to the 16th century, when what is now southern Ukraine was under Ottoman rule. In the area now known as Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi (formerly Akkerman), various grape varieties were cultivated, including Telti-Kuruk. Although the grape’s name has Turkic roots, it isn’t grown outside the region and was nearly lost - if not for the dedication of local winegrowers. Shabo winery, for example, has developed a preservation program specifically for Telti-Kuruk and currently maintains the largest plantings, with 43.5 hectares.
Most sources confirm that Telti-Kuruk is an indigenous Ukrainian grape, endemic to the region with its name tracing back to the Ottoman era. However, it’s also highly probable that its genetic roots trace further back to the South Caucasus, particularly Armenia. It likely emerged during the early domestication of vines, though its exact parentage remains unknown. I’d be fascinated to see further DNA analysis and deeper research into its origins.
The more I learned - and the more I tasted - the more I fell in love with this grape. I’ve always been a fan of versatile varieties like Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay - grapes capable of producing everything from Mosel’s low-alcohol sweet wines to Champagne’s traditional-method sparkling wines to the botrytised gems of Alsace and the Loire. Telti-Kuruk has a similar adaptability. As a late-ripening grape, it can yield exquisite late-harvest and naturally semi-sweet wines. If harvested early, it’s ideal for sparkling wine base. And if you enjoy oak-aged whites, Telti-Kuruk, like Chardonnay, has a great affinity to barrel aging.
Its tasting profile is as diverse as its styles: honey and ripe quince in the late-harvest expression, lemongrass and white peach in the fresh, youthful styles. Alcohol levels range from 11.5% to 13%, depending on the winemaker’s goals. It tends to have a medium to full body and a subtle phenolic grip that gives it structure - beautifully balanced by a lively, vibrant acidity. Personally, I always notice a signature wild herb note, which transports me in my mind to the windy plains near Odesa.
Telti-Kuruk’s resilience adds to its appeal in a time of chaotic climate patterns. It’s resistant to mildew, oidium, and drought. It thrives in sandy soils and shows some resistance to phylloxera. Its strong trunk can withstand the fierce winds of the Odesa region - adaptations developed over centuries. There are some rare plantings of ungrafted vines that are 50 years old, producing exceptional wines. Naturally not very high yields may have limited its popularity among volume-focused producers, but it has certainly caught the attention of quality-driven wineries like Shabo and Beykush, both of which are experimenting with its stylistic potential.
For me, Telti-Kuruk embodies the multicultural, diverse spirit of the wine world. A grape with a Turkic name, grown in Ukraine, it has a special place in my heart - it’s a symbol of resilience, adaptability, and uniqueness. I’m thrilled to see it gaining recognition, being embraced by more Ukrainian wineries, and reaching international markets. If you haven’t tried it yet - this is your cue.
Photo: a cluster of Telti-Kuruk; credit: Wines of Ukraine.
