Mature Austrian whites

Tasting older Austrian whites in the Austrian town of Krems on the evening before the presentation of the latest vintage is an excellent strategy, reminding tasters of how well these wines develop in bottle. Not that there is any lack of evidence. Jan Paulson reminded me very recently of the tasting he did in Austria 15 years ago and the subsequent edition involving Jancis in London, which pitted burgundies against Austrian Grüner Veltliners, with the latter winning hands down. As you can see from my...