ヴォルカニック・ワイン・アワード | The Jancis Robinson Story (ポッドキャスト) | 🎁 年間メンバーシップとギフトプランが25%OFF

Why are modern restaurants so noisy?

Saturday 1 July 2006 • 5 分で読めます

It took me far longer to track down the most suitable person to answer the question numerous FT readers have been putting to me for some time now – why are so many modern restaurants so noisy? – than to think of the most appropriate restaurant in which to meet.

In the end, thanks to a tip from the man responsible for the rebuilding of the concert hall within the Royal Festival Hall and all its attendant acoustic challenges, I got in touch with Alan Saunders, the softly-spoken, 58 year-old managing director of his own firm of acoustics consultants.

Saunders’ company has an international reputation for dealing with the aural challenges not just of numerous modern buildings such as the entrances to hotels and office buildings (he worked on the boardroom in Enron’s  London HQ, for example, and in the end his company was left with an outstanding debt of only £1,500, he told me proudly) but also, most recently, to the possible noise implications from a proposed oil pipe line in Azerbaijan on ancient cave paintings in a part of the countryside it will pass through.

What I didn’t realise as we sat down to lunch in Kensington Place, a restaurant as well known for its continually high noise levels as for the accomplished cooking of my colleague Rowley Leigh, is that Saunders is an enthusiastic cook, describing himself as ‘a bit of a tyrant in my own kitchen with only his 21 year old daughter ever allowed to help,’ and that this was his first visit to what has come to be known by its many regulars as KP.

As we sat down just after 1pm the restaurant was more than half full and already quite noisy – something Saunders chose to explain even before I could him ask any questions. “Perhaps, not surprisingly, it’s the acoustics I notice first whenever I walk into any building. Others may look at the space and find particular charms but I am always struck right away by whether a building is acoustically good or not. And it is trying to convince my clients of this, and its importance on those who will use the building in the future, that is my biggest professional challenge and frustration.”

“But let me start with a few generalisations. The most important is that given the number of people who are already in this space, and I reckon that there must be about 80 or more, whatever they were doing in here would generate a pretty high level of noise. It is not like this simply because it is a restaurant. The most influential factor in the noise level here and in so many other restaurants is the space and the proximity of so many tables within it. The restaurateur has done this not just to create an ambience by allowing as many people to see one another as possible but also for sound financial reasons which I fully appreciate. If you were to halve the tables in here you would halve the volume but you would have to double the prices, I expect. But the effect would be significant. I reckon with half the tables in here you would cut the noise level by 10/15 decibels which is about what you achieve when you close the front door of your house on the traffic noise outside.”

As he tucked into an imaginative first course off the set lunch menu, a salad of wild asparagus and mousseron mushrooms topped with a poached egg, Saunders continued, “But what will happen pretty soon with such a concentration of people as close together as this in a restaurant is that what we refer to as ‘the Cocktail Party Effect’ will take hold. That begins to happen when, invariably induced by a glass of wine or two, people begin to talk louder and louder and then, to make themselves heard against the increasing volume their voices just continue to rise until many of us have to resort, consciously or otherwise, to lip-reading.” Saunders was to be proved right and the second half of our lunch took place against a much noisier background than the first.

Having discovered that Saunders had also been chairman of the Association of Noise Consultants, I asked him what practical advice he could offer to those who wanted to enjoy the conversation as much and as easily as the food and wine.

“The important thing to remember about acoustics is that it is a fairly new profession and I think it is one that is getting a lot of attention at the moment because there is no doubt that as people age their hearing suffers, just as their eyesight does. People suddenly become aware of this and want solutions. But in a restaurant setting these are invariably difficult to introduce effectively because either the architect or the interior designer has not bothered to consider the subject or, if they have, because the restaurateur does not have any budget to deal with what is, in reality, an invisible problem and one that only affects a certain percentage of his customers.”

But would tablecloths, curtains, an abundance of soft furnishings and that old but unscientific tactic of sticking pieces of felt under the restaurant’s tables have any effect I asked Saunders? “On their own each of these has little effect. Collectively, and only collectively, they do help but for example soft floor coverings don’t do much because the floor is then covered by tables which in turn have to be covered by sound absorbent tablecloths to maintain the effect.”

“Let me deal with the physics, briefly. In any room there is direct sound, perceived exclusively by the listener at no more than 1.5 metres from the speaker and at distances greater than this, reverberant sound, which you hear more of the further away you are from the speaker. This combination, plus the consequences of the cocktail party effect, means that the restaurateur is basically up against it. No form of intervention will completely control the problem only make it better although any form of minimalist interior design will only make it worse than it need be.”

“You can only reduce direct sound by putting the listener further from the speaker, the very opposite of why people come to restaurants, or by introducing a screen between them.” Taking my notebook, Saunders drew a diagram of the restaurant with two floor-to-ceiling screens in place, one at either end, which would do just that. “These could be glass but if they were material they would absorb the sound much better as would some banquette seating.”

“The amount of reverberant sound is related to how acoustically hard the surfaces in the restaurant are. Today, most modern interior design invariably incorporates glass, metal and plasterboard which only absorb sound at low frequencies and, unfortunately in the frequencies associated with the intelligibility of speech, these reflect sound almost completely.” To prove his point, Saunders pushed the restaurant’s glass exterior and added “This just bounces the sound round and round.”

“To absorb sound a room needs soft materials and for these to be most effective they need to be on the walls or ceiling where they are uncluttered. Acoustic foams, mineral or rockwool, glass wool (like loft insulation) all have good acoustic absorption, that is they do not reflect much of the sound which hits them and to-day, to make them aesthetically acceptable, they can be placed behind perforated plasterboard, timber or metal panels. Also, again unlike here, anything that the designer or restaurateur can do to diffuse the sound by using the shape of the room, or surfaces within it, to reflect the sound as much as possible and in as many directions as possible will also help. This is the principle used in the design of concert halls and recording studios but contoured artefacts, such as those on the walls of TGI Fridays do the job, too.”

“The moral of all this, “ Saunders concluded with a smile, “is that the old-fashioned Indian restaurant with banquette seating, flock wallpaper and thick velvet curtains gave a much better acoustic environment for eating than so many modern restaurant designs today.”

この記事は有料会員限定です。登録すると続きをお読みいただけます。
JancisRobinson.com 25th anniversaty logo

Celebrating 25 years of the world’s most trusted wine community

日頃の感謝を込めて、期間限定で年間会員・ギフト会員が 25%オフ

コード HOLIDAY25 を使って、ワインの専門家や愛好家のコミュニティに参加しましょう。 有効期限:1月1日まで

スタンダード会員
$135
/year
年間購読
ワイン愛好家向け
  • 286,962件のワインレビュー および 15,835本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
プレミアム会員
$249
/year
 
本格的な愛好家向け
  • 286,962件のワインレビュー および 15,835本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • 最新のワイン・レビュー と記事に先行アクセス(一般公開の48時間前より)
プロフェッショナル
$299
/year
ワイン業界関係者(個人)向け 
  • 286,962件のワインレビュー および 15,835本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • 最新のワイン・レビュー と記事に先行アクセス(一般公開の48時間前より)
  • 最大25件のワインレビューおよびスコアを商業利用可能(マーケティング用)
ビジネスプラン
$399
/year
法人購読
  • 286,962件のワインレビュー および 15,835本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • 最新のワイン・レビュー と記事に先行アクセス(一般公開の48時間前より)
  • 最大250件のワインレビューおよびスコアを商業利用可能(マーケティング用)
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
で購入
ニュースレター登録

編集部から、最新のワインニュースやトレンドを毎週メールでお届けします。

プライバシーポリシーおよび利用規約が適用されます。

More Nick on restaurants

Lilibet's raw fish bar
ニックのレストラン巡り 土曜日のランチには何か特別なものがある。メイフェアの最新オープン店で楽しんだランチの物語。とても豪華だ! 40年以上にわたって...
Sylt with beach and Strandkörbe
ニックのレストラン巡り 年次美食の喜びのまとめ。上の写真は、2025年7月にニックに過度な喜びを提供したドイツのジルト島である。 毎年この時期になると...
Poon's dining room in Somerset House
ニックのレストラン巡り 娘が両親の愛されていた中華レストランの思い出を蘇らせる。 プーン(Poon)という姓は...
Alta keg dispense
ニックのレストラン巡り ロンドン中心部で最も賑やかなファストフード街の一角にオープンした新レストランは、スペインの強い影響を受けている。 ロンドンのウエスト...

More from JancisRobinson.com

View from Smith Madrone on Spring Mountain
無料で読める記事 Demand, and prices, are falling. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Above, the view from...
Albert Canela and Mariona Vendrell of Succes Vinicola.jpg
今週のワイン A rosé to warm your winter, from £17.30, $19.99. Above, Albert Canela and Mariona Vendrell of Succés Vinícola. The wind...
The Overshine Collective
テイスティング記事 The second tranche of wines reviewed on Jancis’s recent West Coast road trip. Above, the new Overshine Collective, a group...
Les Crus Bourgeois logos
テイスティング記事 Classic, affordable bordeaux made for pleasure and selected for an independent, reliable and regularly updated classification. For all that we’ve...
Glasses of Cape Mentelle red wine on a tasting mat
テイスティング記事 This month’s Singapore selection features a majority from Western Australia, including a handsome mini-vertical of Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon. As...
Ch Pichon Baron © Serge Chapuis
テイスティング記事 A Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting in London gave us a first look at these finished wines. How...
View from Le Ripi towards Monte Amiata
現地詳報 この記事はAIによる翻訳を日本語話者によって検証・編集したものです。(監修:ホザック・エミリー) 2025年...
AdVL Smart Traveller's Guides covers
書籍レビュー 現地でのワインと食事に関する実践的なアドバイスを求めるワイン愛好家のための、洗練された6冊のガイドブック。 スマート・トラベラーズ...
JancisRobinson.comニュースレター
最新のワインニュースやトレンドを毎週メールでお届けします。
JancisRobinson.comでは、ニュースレターを無料配信しています。ワインに関する最新情報をいち早くお届けします。
なお、ご登録いただいた個人情報は、ニュースレターの配信以外の目的で利用したり、第三者に提供したりすることはありません。プライバシーポリシーおよび利用規約が適用されます.