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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Wild menu - yellow background
Free for all A walk on the Wild side in Berkhamsted

Carefully cultivated wildness in the Home Counties. And an unmissable wine list. Farm to fish to fork to frying pan … there is a lot of f-ing about in restaurants...

More restaurant reviews

Hispi cabbage
Nick on restaurants A vital cabbage question answered, with a surprise sustainability angle. Recently, while looking over a menu in a restaurant, Jancis...
London's Chinatown
Nick on restaurants The inside story of London's Chinatown. Its main thoroughfare Gerrard Street is seen above. It was just before 1 pm...
Chef Alex Dilling
Nick on restaurants 25 July Jancis adds It seems that soon after this article was published, this small, 11-table restaurant was overwhelmed by...
London skyline in a wine bottle
Free for all What it says on the tin, updated for this summer’s influx of visitors. This article has long proved especially popular...
Nick Lander and Martin Lam at L'Escargot in the 1980s
Nick on restaurants Some reflections on changes to the hospitality industry over the last few decades. Above, Nick with chef Martin Lam at...
Wild Flor crew: Rob Maynard and James Thomson, chef Alistair Munro
Nick on restaurants A new gem that's a seaside walk from Brighton on the south coast of England, and within striking distance of...
Parakeet dishes
Nick on restaurants A great new arrival in north London. Assorted dishes from its kitchen are pictured above by Justin De Souza. London...
Rambutan kitchen
Nick on restaurants An authentic Sri Lankan restaurant in London's Borough Market is proving extremely popular. Were it not for the COVID-19 pandemic...
Rosetta kitchen
Nick on restaurants No apologies for supplementing last week's article on eating out in Mexico City; it's currently a restaurant hotspot. Three more...
The gardens outside Pujol restaurant in Mexico City
Nick on restaurants The new and the old savoured in one of the world's most vibrant restaurant cultures. The scene at 6 pm...
Wines at Press
Nick on restaurants Nick appreciates humble baked goods as much as haute cuisine with some extremely good wines. There is obviously plenty to...
Janken interior
Nick on restaurants Where to dine in Oregon's culinary capital. Vienna apart, Portland is probably the major city in the world closest to...
Gouqi aubergine
Nick on restaurants An ambitious new Chinese restaurant on Trafalgar Square. ‘What’s important about restaurants in the West End’, my friend proclaimed shortly...
La Bonne Chere exterior
Nick on restaurants Good eating in Brussels and Bruges. See also Racines of Brussels. I made two mistakes when I set off for...
The Ritz dining room, London
Nick on restaurants Gut surgery, followed by gut satisfaction in one of London's most distinctive dining rooms. It has become something of a...
Groucho in a restaurant
Nick on restaurants Conversation when dining out can be challenging … Why do so many restaurateurs today seem to ignore the principal reason...
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