The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition | 🎁 20% off annual memberships

Australia's Winemaker of the Year moves to Napa

• 3 min read
Image

Newton Vineyard is not currently one of Napa Valley's most talked-about wineries. Long gone are the days in the early 1980s when high-profile winemaker Ric Forman was lured from Sterling, then riding the crest of a Coke-financed wave (upper case C), to Newton, where he was succeeded by John Kongsgaard. The estate, including sumptuous gardens, was created on Spring Mountain north west of St Helena by Peter Newton and his second wife Su Hua Newton. Before selling it to CocaCola, Englishman Newton had established Sterling as early as the late 1960s – almost pre-history for Napa Valley. He ran a successful paper company in San Francisco and was once, inter alia, responsible for the omniscient Lex column on the back page of the FT. 

Today Newton Vineyard is probably best known for being part of the LVMH wine portfolio, called rather unmemorably Moët Hennessy Estates & Wines. As I reported in Cloudy Bay and cousins, it has been one of the concerns of the new head of the division, Jean-Guillaume Prats. Newton has, arguably, been bumbling along rather than making anyone's heart beat faster, but presumably Prats, who ran super second Ch Cos d'Estournel in Bordeaux for most of his working life, would like to change this.

The name of the new Newton winemaker may not mean much to thejack_mann_cabernet_sauvignon California wine scene, but it means a great deal to Australians. Rob Mann (pictured) is from a famous winemaking dynasty and grandson of one of Australia's most revered winemakers ever. His grandfather Jack Mann not only created the best-selling Houghton's White Burgundy (sic) but, perhaps more significantly, made so many great Cabernet-based reds in Western Australia during his 50-vintage career that Hardys' top bottling is named after him. Rob was senior winemaker at Hardys' historic Tintara winery in South Australia before being wooed by LVMH in 2005 to take the tiller at Cape Mentelle, their flagship Margaret River winery – see New winemaker for Cape Mentelle at last.

When those organising the first of the superb Landmark Australia educational weeks for opinion-formers (which seem to have evaporated...?) wanted someone to introduce Cabernet Sauvignon, they chose Rob Mann. See Julia's video of Mann introducing Cabernet at Landmark Australia in 2009. During Mann's 10 years at Cape Mentelle, the winery was twice awarded Producer of the Year and Rob Mann Winemaker of the Year.

It will be quite a culture shock, I would have thought, to move from Margaret River to Napa Valley, however beloved both of them are by wine-loving tourists. But I should imagine that Mann's experience with Cabernet will be pretty relevant, even if the terroir is quite different. It will not be completely new to Mann, however, since he made the 2007 vintage at Newton on secondment from Cape Mentelle.

Newton currently comprises 120 acres of vineyard with some plantings on Mount Veeder, Yountville and Carneros, but the kernel of the estate at Spring Mountain is very promisingly located between the super-lauded Abreu and my beloved Spottswoode. (I'll be publishing an account of a vertical Spottswoode tasting before too long.)

Mann's official comment on the new challenge is: 'I am very pleased to be continuing my exploration of the wonders of Cabernet Sauvignon. Moving from Australia's most highly regarded Cabernet region of Margaret River to the USA's most highly regarded Cabernet region Napa Valley presents an amazing opportunity.'

Talking to Mann in 2011 about his time in the Napa Valley in 2007, Huon Hooke
reported in the Sydney Morning Herald that Mann was particularly impressed by the effects of clonal selection of Cabernet Sauvignon there even if he thought about the results that 'Californians harvest their grapes too ripe and their wines lack elegance – but the quality of their fruit is spectacular'. I for one will be particularly interested in the evolution of Newton Cabernets.

evan_thompsonPrats would of course be crazy not to leave Cape Mentelle, the high-profile winery founded by David Hohnen, who went on to create Cloudy Bay, in ultra-capable hands. He has appointed two layers above winemaker Evan Thompson (left) who has been renamed maitre de chai (not sure how that will go down with his peers).

The new estate director is not a winemaker but Cameron Murphy who was previously 'Business Development Manager- Asia Pacific, Japan, Australia & New Zealand' for Moët Hennessy (and presumably had quite big business cards). Reporting to him as technical director will be Frédérique Perrin. She was previously oenology and production manager for Champagne Krug and between 2007 and 2012 was associate winemaker at....Newton Vineyard.

Incidentally, on the Cape Mentelle website, from which the portrait above was taken, Mann is quoted as declaring, 'Cabernet Sauvignon is the only variety that would be tolerated in heaven' while Thompson '
has a great interest in the wines of Bordeaux, particularly St-Émilion, and is a big fan of Riesling from the Mosel'. Wise man.

The official announcement of this personnel shuffling carries the following final paragraph:

'Estates & Wines, the Moët Hennessy Wine Division, has an impressive portfolio comprising Chandon in Napa, Brazil, Argentina, India, China and Australia; Cloudy Bay, Cape Mentelle, Newton Vineyard, Terrazas de los Andes, Cheval des Andes, Numanthia and Shangri-La in Yunnan, China.'

Looks as though they have now decided on a name for that amazing project, described in China's new wine frontier, that Nick and I visited last March…

选择方案
25th

For the dad who loves wine

Start your membership this Father’s Day with 20% off a full year. Expert reviews, honest writing, no guesswork. Or, gift a membership and save 20%.

Enter code DAD20 at checkout. Offer ends 26 June.

会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 295,695 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,104 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 295,695 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,104 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Kullabergs Vingård © Terra Skåne/Jan Kivissar
Free for all 根据星级酒单 (Star Wine List) 的评选,这是一份比大多数指南更具权威性的榜单。上图,美食与葡萄酒行家们齐聚阿里尔德酒庄...
Mont Ventoux seen from Les Deux Cols at dawn
Free for all 南部并非全是强劲的歌海娜 (Grenache)。本文的一个版本发表于《金融时报》(Financial Times)。 另见...
WWC26 announcement graphic
Free for all 在聆听最喜爱的专辑或阅读一本好书时,你最想喝哪款葡萄酒?你是否有与 芭比 [Barbie] 、 蒙娜丽莎 [Mona Lisa] 、...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all 以下是那些为获得令人垂涎的两个字母而努力的考生所面对的问题,其中包括 我们自己的 萨曼莎·科尔-约翰逊 (Samantha Cole...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Poggio di Sotto vineyard
Tasting articles 如果您欣赏能够反映年份和风土的葡萄酒,那么顶级的 2020 年份布鲁内洛 (Brunello) 非常值得购买。上图为索托山庄 (Poggio...
Wine & War book cover
Book reviews 提醒我们葡萄酒在冲突时期恢复人性、幽默和希望的力量。 葡萄酒与战争 法国人、纳粹和法国最伟大宝藏的争夺战 唐和佩蒂·克拉德斯特鲁普 (Don...
Flowers in the Meinklang vineyard
Wines of the week 一款来自奥地利的神奇起泡酒,售价 €9, £15.50, $16.95 起 。 有人说,这是魔力最强大的时刻……夏至,仙灵在我们中间起舞...
Dalla Valle vineyard
Tasting articles 一个标志性的年份。上图,位于奥克维尔 (Oakville) 的达拉瓦莱酒庄 (Dalla Valle Vineyards) 出品了萨姆...
La Réméjeanne vineyard
Tasting articles 南罗纳河谷"西北走廊"高海拔葡萄酒品质潜力的预览。上图为雷梅让酒庄 (Domaine La Réméjeanne) 的生物多样性葡萄园之一...
Hugo, Rui, Francisco and Ricardo of Cas’amaro
Tasting articles 葡萄牙这一葡萄酒产区南半部分的巡礼。北半部分的生产商和葡萄酒请参见 第一部分 。上图(从左至右)为雨果·门德斯 (Hugo Mendes)...
Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Don't quote me 尼克·马丁 (Nick Martin) 在又一场期酒活动接近尾声时进行了反思。拉科斯特大皮伊酒庄 (Château Grand-Puy...
A castle in the Espera vineyards
Tasting articles 这个被低估且有时被误解的葡萄牙葡萄酒产区之旅。今天,我们介绍北部地区——恩科斯塔斯德艾尔 (Encostas d'Aire)、阿尔科巴萨...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.