The general obsession with Biondi Santi, the legendary Montalcino estate credited with the birth of Brunello back in the nineteenth century, and widespread agonising over any possible stylistic changes – for the worse it was assumed – which ensued after Franco Biondi Santi’s death in 2013, is one of many signs that Italian wine has gone from a modernist into a post-modernist phase.
I witnessed this myself when I started to work with Italian wines back in the 1990s as a waiter...
