Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2012 – G-J

Monday 27 January 2014
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For all other articles and more than 1,600 tasting notes on this sparse vintage, please see Burgundy 2012 – a guide to our coverage.

The tasting notes below are grouped in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name and then under each producer by colour first (white then red), then by quality level (regional, then village, then premier cru, then grand cru), and finally, where there is more than one wine within a level, they are in alphabetical order by appellation/vineyard name.

DOMAINE GAGEY – see LOUIS JADOT

DOMAINE JEAN-NOËL GAGNARD

White
Again – as in Les Petits Clos – that almost Riesling-like precision in the aroma but a little more creamy. Creamy texture, too. Deft, fresh, a little chalky. Very precise. (JH)
Drink: 2017 – 2023
Price: £645 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
White
Stony first impression, not giving much away now. A hint of cedar and vanilla. Then more impressive on the palate. Taut, lively and with a fine savoury finish. The opposite of fruit forward but none the worse for that. (JH)
Drink: 2016 – 2022
Price: £198 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White
Distinctive aroma: oily, minerally citrus, smells a bit like young Riesling! On the palate, definitely Chardonnay. Cool, refined, immense freshness and long harmonious finish. (JH)
Drink: 2017 – 2022
Price: £515 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks

DOMAINE GAGNARD-DELAGRANGE

White
Bitter grapefruit and apple, smart acid, fine texture. Tasty but not as impressive as the Morey Virondot. (RH)
Drink: 2015 – 2022
Price: £tbc per case ib Clarion
White
Slightly musty. Very low-level taint, perhaps? Doesn’t seem 100% clean to me. Shame – the rest of the wine is tasty – green citrus, leafy and herbal. (RH)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £tbc per case ib Clarion

DOMAINE DOMINIQUE GALLOIS

Red
Unusually blackish ruby. Sweaty nose – lacks the freshness of most 2012s. Sweet and a bit simple and stewed. OK but it doesn't really have the vintage character. Sour, smoky finish. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2018
Price: £46 RRP (Imported by Liberty)
Red
Sour and stewed. Rhubarb fruit. Overextracted in the winery? An interesting counterpoint to everyone else's 2012s? (JR)
Drink: 2017 – 2020
Price: £79 RRP (Imported by Liberty)

ALEX GAMBAL

White
Rather wild notes of grapefruit and fresh herbs. Softened on the palate by a creamy texture, softer than I expected after the lively aroma but fresh to the end. Balanced but only moderate concentration. (JH)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £315 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
Red
Bright crimson. Just slightly rubbery at the moment with a (temporary) reductive note. Lightish but complete. Dry, chalky tannins, fresh finish with just enough fruit to match the structure. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2018
Price: £155 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
Red
Much more sweet-fruited and toasty on the nose than the Bourgogne Cuvée les Deux Papis. Gently fruity and quite soft but with a good core of fruit giving length. Gentle, rounded tannins are just right for the whole. Speaks softly but lovingly. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £199 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
Red
Some spicy oak sweetness initially. Pure, dark-red fruit with perfectly proportioned, mild tannins and freshness to the long finish. Delicious in an anti-blockbuster style. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2022
Price: £425 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb

DOMAINE FLORENT GARAUDET

White
Classy aroma of that slight smoky reduction allied with zesty citrus. Slight rather nice grip around the creamy lemon flavour. Excellent freshness and balance. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2019
Price: £260 per case of 12 ib Burgundy Portfolio
White
Smells luxuriously creamy, just a touch of oatmeal and orange zest. Intense, crisp, full fruited, just a hint of boiled sweets on the finish – the fruit and acidity perhaps needing time to meld. (JH)
Drink: 2016 – 2020
Price: £340 per case of 12 ib Burgundy Portfolio
Red
Ripe fruit aroma, like the Taupine but more tangy sour-cherry character. Dense, compact. Lots of flavour and plenty of fruit in the middle to fill out the dry, chalky tannins. Oak is obvious on the finish but there's the fruit to shine through. (JH)
Drink: 2017 – 2022
Price: £450 per case of 12 ib Burgundy Portfolio
Red
Distinctively ripe damson-like fruit. Lithe, supple and fresh, already quite approachable. (JH)
Drink: 2016 – 2020
Price: £280 per case of 12 ib Burgundy Portfolio

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