Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | 🎁 25% off annual & gift memberships

Competition – Cynthia Coutu

Sunday 9 September 2018 • 5 min read
Image

Cynthia Coutu writes: 'I am Cynthia, a 50-something Canadian. I have been living in Paris for more than 25 years. I have 3 passions: people, wine and travel. I try to combine all 3 whenever possible. Learning about wine has opened so many doors and windows for me – onto new people, different cultures and fascinating places. When I was a teenager my mom used to joke that my friends were from embassy row to skid row. Not much has changed since then. I have drunk homemade rice wine with the very scantily-dressed chief of a headhunting tribe in Borneo. Perched up high in his longhouse, he shared his top 10 list of things to do on the island with me. I also savoured a couple of bottles of delicious red wine with a slightly more dressed (he was wearing a bathrobe) Governor General of Canada during his official visit to France. During our lovely tête-à-tête in a 5-star hotel he shared his passion about collecting tomato seeds from around the world, and the wine that Jacques Chirac had delivered to his room. I have also shared chang (Tibetan beer) with a bunch of Tibetan monks who invited me to celebrate the Tibetan New Year with them in a monastery in Nepal. I have sipped red, white, still, sparkling, and fortified wine from so many countries, with so many interesting people, from so many different walks of life. Everybody had an interesting story to share.

'About 6 months ago I created Delectabulles.com, a Champagne Networking Club for Women, to give women the opportunity to share their stories and knowledge with other women while sipping sparkling wine. Delectabulles supports women in the male-dominated wine industry by:

  • promoting sparkling wines made by women and telling their stories
  • giving more women the tools and confidence they need to buy sparkling wines from around the world.'

This is her (unedited) entry into our seminal wine competition.

I left Canada over 25 years ago to study art history in Paris. All I had in my pocket was my degree in photography, my camera, a small grant from the French government, a big student loan, a Curious George soft toy, and a Canadian boyfriend who was passionate about philosophy and fly-fishing.

 

We found a small flat in the very residential 14th arrondissement. Thanks to my “charming” Québécois accent, I was able to quickly befriend the local merchants. My cheese monger loved maple syrup. I would bring him two cans of the real stuff, and he would give me two grocery bags full of every type of cheese in the shop. Was a sweet deal! We exchanged recipes and he taught me so much about cheese during my first year in Paris. My caviste was a 2-minute walk from the flat. He was such a lovely little old man and his shop was like Ali Baba’s cavern. He was so eager to get me to try a new appellation from a new region of France every time I went to see him. During my weekly visits we would discuss my impressions of the last bottle before he would give me a new bottle. He was so generous with his time and knowledge. I am eternally indebted to him.

I didn’t actually get much academic studying done that first winter. My time was mostly spent exploring Paris, eating cheese, drinking wine and… tying flies. I knew we would be going back to Canada late Spring for our annual fly-fishing trip. Tying our own flies during the winter was our way of building up the anticipation for the trip in a kind of Zen and artsy-fartsy way.

A few weeks before the fishing trip I went to see my caviste and told him that I had an idea. “Monsieur, I want to marry the best of both worlds – Canadian nature and French wine. Please help me find ZE right bottle!”. I explained that I would be fly-fishing about 5 hours north of Quebec City, in a very remote area, only accessible after 3 hours on the autoroute, 1 hour on a dirt road, then 3 portages on the river Metabetchouane. Our final destination was a beautiful and secluded log cabin built at the beginning of the century for rich Americans. I was willing to hand over all of my savings – 400 FF (about 60 euros!) – to buy the best possible bottle to take on the trip. My caviste was very excited by the idea. He rubbed his hands with glee, locked the door, and said follow me. He opened a secret trap in the floor and explained that is where he kept his good stuff, and that it wasn’t usually for sale. His wife was an avid bridge player, and when her fellow lady bridge players became widows, they often sold their personal wine cellars before moving to the South of France. Guess who was there to make them an offer? My little old caviste. I didn’t know very much about wine at the time, but I knew enough to recognise some big names in his secret stash. We spent at least 30 minutes down there and came up with two bottles: a Cheval Blanc, and a Haut-Brion. The latter was from 1982, but I can’t remember the year of the former. I couldn’t decide which bottle to buy. Neither could my caviste. He said it was impossible to choose. The hero of the day gave me the two bottles for 400FF! And a long list of instructions on how to take care of them during the journey. He made me promise to report back to him.

So off I went with my liquid gold. The bottles survived the long plane ride and bumpy road trip. I carried them like babies in the canoe, then let them rest for a few days in the beautiful log cabin overlooking the river. We got up early every morning to fly-fish for speckled trout. They were more like fresh water salmon than trout. The males were blue and purple and the females were red and orange. And they were big, not like scrawny little French trout. They were also very clever fish that had to be outsmarted. We had to observe nature and deduce what they were eating, and where, in order to choose the right fly to lure them. Some days we fished on the river, but most days we hiked to nearby lakes. On our fourth day we had glorious weather so fished longer than usual. We got back to camp late, tired and hungry, but satisfied with our catch. While gutting the fish we discussed how we would cook them. We agreed we would wrap them in bacon and fry them up. We also agreed that the wine bottles had probably rested enough and that tonight was the night we would open one of them. I decided it would be the 1982 Haut-Brion.

We wanted to eat outside even if it was pitch black. It is humbling to see so many stars on a clear night. Just as we sat down to eat, the sky lit up with the most beautiful blue and green dancing Northern Lights. We were awestruck. We didn’t speak. We took a slow sip of the Haut-Brion. Then we just looked at each other, then at the sky, then at our glasses. We kept drinking in complete silence and enjoyed the beauty of the wine and the sky. Felt like I had died and went to heaven. That is when I understood what all the fuss about wine was about.

I couldn’t wait to tell my caviste the story upon my return to Paris. Needless to say, he loved it, and I continued learning about wine with him until I moved to a new quartier about 5 years later. I now have a WSET 3 in my pocket but I am not sure it would have enabled me to appreciate that Haut-Brion against the backdrop of the Aurora Borealis any more than I did. I could have probably broken it down technically, but that would be missing the point, and the beauty. You just have to let it in.

Become a member to continue reading

Celebrating 25 years of building the world’s most trusted wine community

In honour of our anniversary, enjoy 25% off all annual and gift memberships for a limited time.

Use code HOLIDAY25 to join our community of wine experts and enthusiasts. Valid through 1 January.

会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 285,307 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,802 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 285,307 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,802 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 285,307 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,802 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 285,307 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,802 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

RBJR01_Richard Brendon_Jancis Robinson Collection_glassware with cheese
Free for all What do you get the wine lover who already has everything? Membership of JancisRobinson.com of course! (And especially now, when...
Red wines at The Morris by Cat Fennell
Free for all A wide range of delicious reds for drinking and sharing over the holidays. A very much shorter version of this...
JancisRobinson.com team 15 Nov 2025 in London
Free for all 这次不是我通常的月度日记,而是回顾过去四分之一世纪(和半个世纪)的历程。 杰西斯的日记 (Jancis's diary) 将在新年伊始回归...
Skye Gyngell
Free for all 尼克 (Nick) 向两位英国美食界的杰出力量致敬,她们的离世来得太早。上图为斯凯·金格尔 (Skye Gyngell)。 套用奥斯卡...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Karl and Alex Fritsch in winery; photo by Julius_Hirtzberger.jpg
Wines of the week A rare Austrian variety revived and worthy of a place at the table. From €13.15, £20.10, $24.19. It was pouring...
Windfall vineyard Oregon
Tasting articles The fine sparkling-wine producers of Oregon are getting organised. Above, Lytle-Barnett’s Windfall vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon (credit: Lester...
Mercouri peacock
Tasting articles More than 120 Greek wines tasted in the Peloponnese and in London. This peacock in the grounds of Mercouri estate...
Wine Snobbery book cover
Book reviews A scathing take on the wine industry that reminds us to keep asking questions – about wine, and about everything...
bidding during the 2025 Hospices de Beaune wine auction
Inside information A look back – and forward – at the world’s oldest wine charity auction, from a former bidder. On Sunday...
hen among ripe grapes in the Helichrysum vineyard
Tasting articles The wines Brunello producers are most proud of from the 2021 vintage, assessed. See also Walter’s overview of the vintage...
Haliotide - foggy landscape
Tasting articles Wines for the festive season, pulled from our last month of tastings. Above, fog over the California vineyards of Haliotide...
Leonardo Berti of Poggio di Sotto
Tasting articles 继沃尔特 (Walter) 上周五发布的 年份概述之后,这里是他酒评的第一部分。上图为索托山丘酒庄 (Poggio di Sotto)...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.