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如果巴登 (Baden) 患上冒名顶替综合症，有人会责怪它吗？德国最南端的葡萄酒产区不仅一边与法国接壤，另一边与瑞士相邻，而且它的两个旗舰葡萄品种——晚勃艮第 (Spätburgunder) 和古特德尔 (Gutedel)，在那些邻国以不同的名字被视为国宝。
我最近一次前往德国西南部的旅行（见这张地图）显示，巴登种植者近年来在建立有别于法国和瑞士邻国风格方面取得了多大的进步。这个地区，特别是它的晚勃艮第和古特德尔，已经完全准备好作为值得专程前往的目的地独立展现自己。
