The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

Hungarian oak – a report from Mel Knox

• 3 min read
oak

Someone was asking about eastern European oaks recently in Your turn on purple pages. Coincidentally I have just received this report on a visit to fancy French coopers François Frères's new Hungarian cooperage. It's written by their San Francisco-based barrel salesman extraordinaire Mel Knox who wrote most of the words of the Oxford Companion to Wine's entries on oak, even if not necessarily in the order they are printed. Whether you ever plan to buy barrels or not, I recommend you get yourself on his mailing list by applying to [email protected] for regular despatches of zaniness, à la Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon but much briefer and therefore more digestible.

 

Father Crush is getting dressed. Do you have your barrels ordered??

Once again, we have to remind people to look in their desks and make sure the barrel confirmations are there. It happens every year. Maybe one page of a two-page fax came through to our office. Maybe Moke used your purchase order to write down the phone number of one of his girlfriends and it never got to Sally. This happens all the time.

We still have a few François barrels available and some in stock. I am not sure how much longer this will be true. My Taransaud barrel allocation has been exhausted and it looks as though it will not grow next year. One thought: sign up for their Chêne Club and perhaps you will find clues on how to increase your allocation. Log on to www.taransaud.com and sign up for the Chêne Club. This is almost as good as belonging to a chêne gang.

Over Memorial Day weekend [late May] I spent three days visiting Hungary, where the François family purchased half-interest in a stave mill and cooperage two years ago. With a group that included Americans, French, South Africans, and Hungarian-Americans we visited most of the country. Indeed, another four or five hours on the bus and we could have visited about ten countries!

The first day we boarded a double-decker bus and headed south to the cooperage and stave mill. As a young boy I had been profoundly impressed by the Hungarian uprising of 1956 and we debated whether American intervention would have led to nuclear war. Talking about this period of history with Erica Molnar, who escaped to Austria when she was a little girl, really touched me.

The stave mill looks just like a French one... not too surprising since the equipment came from France. The cooperage is pretty up-to-date as well. The wood park is one of the largest I have seen.

After all the visits, including a nice ride in a helicopter, the Trust people celebrated ten years of business with a gala dinner featuring folk dancing, gypsy music, a traditional chanteuse, and finally a cover band singing ABBA's 'Waterloo' and the Melodians 'Rivers of Babylon'. Naturally as soon as the party got really going, we had to get back on the bus. I guess the concept of 'for the good of the party' has lost its meaning.

The next day we visited the forests. As in France, the forests are managed for long-term viability. This means that Hungarian oak will not be a short-lived phenomenon, as was Yugoslavian oak in the 70s. The final day we visited wineries in Tokaj and discovered that fifty years of Communist rule had not eliminated noble rot. Capitalist influence was seen in the form of foreign investment from AXA and Vega Sicilia, not to mention winemaker studies in California and Oregon. On the drive back to Budapest the South Africans sang hymns while Jacques Jaboulet meditated.

 

François Hungary:
225 or 228 L export barrel…………………………………$440/each FOB Napa
265 L barrel……………………………………………… $465/each FOB Napa
500 L barrel………………………………………………...$690/each FOB Napa

Château barrels and other sizes are available. Quantity discounts available. The wood for these barrels is well-dried and tight-grained. Results to date have been excellent. What are you waiting for??

 

Prices for François Frères [French] barrels:
1-10 barrels: 660 Euros, 11-24: 650 Euros, 25-49: 640 Euros

Go Giants!

Mel Knox
June 2002

Well this is obviously a sales pitch but more fun than most. It's characteristically long on human interest and light on technical detail. I will ask for more, though suspect that phrase 'well-dried and tight-grained' may be the sum total on offer.

 

选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 296,884 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,132 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 296,884 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,132 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Boscastle harbour
Free for all 非凡的海鲜和完美搭配的魔力在火箭仓库 (The Rocket Store)。上图为博斯卡斯尔港 (Boscastle harbour)。...
Ch Langoa Barton chai in May 2025
Free for all ISVV 的工作成果如何传递到各个酒庄?它又如何影响了葡萄酒?此外,波尔多顶级和底层酒庄的亮点。本文的一个版本发表于金融时报...
Emptied plates and glasses after a meal by Jason Lowe
Free for all 路边餐馆的乐趣,作者:查理·吉奥根 (Charlie Geoghegan)。照片由杰森·洛 (Jason Lowe) 拍摄。...
Opus One winery
Free for all 首个跨大西洋合资企业作品一号 (Opus One) 涉及20世纪葡萄酒界的标志性人物。本文的一个版本发表于《金融时报》(Financial...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Wanton at XO Kitchen
Bite-sized 鲜味爱好者们,向东出发,品尝让人下巴酸痛的美味融合菜肴和本州酸味鸡尾酒 (Honshu sour)。 XO 厨房 (XO Kitchen)...
chickens in the HJW vineyard at Hermann J Wiemer, Seneca Lake
Wines of the week 这款干白葡萄酒奠定了纽约手指湖 (Finger Lakes) 作为美国雷司令 (Riesling) 圣地的地位。而且它只会越来越好。售价...
Harvest at Robert Weil by Peter Quirin.jpg
Tasting articles 这是一个极度平衡的年份,拥有明亮的酸度和近年来记忆中最好的庄园级葡萄酒。此外还有大量优质的雷司令 (Riesling)。上图为罗伯特·威尔...
cheddars, apples and fruity red wine
Inside information 真正的切达配真正的葡萄酒。 通过某种小小的奇迹,我设法找到了那辆四个轮子都能正常运转的购物车。我对购物车任性之神的祈祷得到了回应...
Monty on the beach at Betty’s Bay, near Hemel-en Aarde
Tasting articles 来自南非一些最佳生产商的瓶装清凉与轻盈。上图,蒙蒂 (Monty) 在贝蒂湾 (Betty's Bay) 享受清凉的海浪,该地靠近天与地...
Chris Keets (left) and Banele Vanele (right)
Tasting articles 证明南非仍然是最值得探索的葡萄酒国家之一。上图为天气报告 (Weather Report) 的克里斯·基特 (Chris Keets)(左...
Lasseter Trinity Ridge Vineyard - Michael Housewright photography
Tasting articles 历史悠久的葡萄园、高海拔、火山土壤和有机种植的结合使这个鲜为人知的 AVA 脱颖而出。上图为 拉塞特酒庄 (Lasseter Winery)...
Cotta vineyard
Tasting articles 来自热浪年份的诱人清新且易饮的葡萄酒。索蒂马诺 (Sottimano) 从科塔 (Cottà) 特级园(如上图所示...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.