The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | wine writing competition | 🎁 20% off annual memberships

Hungarian oak – a report from Mel Knox

• 3 min read
oak

Someone was asking about eastern European oaks recently in Your turn on purple pages. Coincidentally I have just received this report on a visit to fancy French coopers François Frères's new Hungarian cooperage. It's written by their San Francisco-based barrel salesman extraordinaire Mel Knox who wrote most of the words of the Oxford Companion to Wine's entries on oak, even if not necessarily in the order they are printed. Whether you ever plan to buy barrels or not, I recommend you get yourself on his mailing list by applying to [email protected] for regular despatches of zaniness, à la Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon but much briefer and therefore more digestible.

 

Father Crush is getting dressed. Do you have your barrels ordered??

Once again, we have to remind people to look in their desks and make sure the barrel confirmations are there. It happens every year. Maybe one page of a two-page fax came through to our office. Maybe Moke used your purchase order to write down the phone number of one of his girlfriends and it never got to Sally. This happens all the time.

We still have a few François barrels available and some in stock. I am not sure how much longer this will be true. My Taransaud barrel allocation has been exhausted and it looks as though it will not grow next year. One thought: sign up for their Chêne Club and perhaps you will find clues on how to increase your allocation. Log on to www.taransaud.com and sign up for the Chêne Club. This is almost as good as belonging to a chêne gang.

Over Memorial Day weekend [late May] I spent three days visiting Hungary, where the François family purchased half-interest in a stave mill and cooperage two years ago. With a group that included Americans, French, South Africans, and Hungarian-Americans we visited most of the country. Indeed, another four or five hours on the bus and we could have visited about ten countries!

The first day we boarded a double-decker bus and headed south to the cooperage and stave mill. As a young boy I had been profoundly impressed by the Hungarian uprising of 1956 and we debated whether American intervention would have led to nuclear war. Talking about this period of history with Erica Molnar, who escaped to Austria when she was a little girl, really touched me.

The stave mill looks just like a French one... not too surprising since the equipment came from France. The cooperage is pretty up-to-date as well. The wood park is one of the largest I have seen.

After all the visits, including a nice ride in a helicopter, the Trust people celebrated ten years of business with a gala dinner featuring folk dancing, gypsy music, a traditional chanteuse, and finally a cover band singing ABBA's 'Waterloo' and the Melodians 'Rivers of Babylon'. Naturally as soon as the party got really going, we had to get back on the bus. I guess the concept of 'for the good of the party' has lost its meaning.

The next day we visited the forests. As in France, the forests are managed for long-term viability. This means that Hungarian oak will not be a short-lived phenomenon, as was Yugoslavian oak in the 70s. The final day we visited wineries in Tokaj and discovered that fifty years of Communist rule had not eliminated noble rot. Capitalist influence was seen in the form of foreign investment from AXA and Vega Sicilia, not to mention winemaker studies in California and Oregon. On the drive back to Budapest the South Africans sang hymns while Jacques Jaboulet meditated.

 

François Hungary:
225 or 228 L export barrel…………………………………$440/each FOB Napa
265 L barrel……………………………………………… $465/each FOB Napa
500 L barrel………………………………………………...$690/each FOB Napa

Château barrels and other sizes are available. Quantity discounts available. The wood for these barrels is well-dried and tight-grained. Results to date have been excellent. What are you waiting for??

 

Prices for François Frères [French] barrels:
1-10 barrels: 660 Euros, 11-24: 650 Euros, 25-49: 640 Euros

Go Giants!

Mel Knox
June 2002

Well this is obviously a sales pitch but more fun than most. It's characteristically long on human interest and light on technical detail. I will ask for more, though suspect that phrase 'well-dried and tight-grained' may be the sum total on offer.

 

选择方案
25th

For the dad who loves wine

Start your membership this Father’s Day with 20% off a full year. Expert reviews, honest writing, no guesswork. Or, gift a membership and save 20%.

Enter code DAD20 at checkout. Offer ends 22 June.

会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 295,436 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,098 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 295,436 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,098 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

WWC26 announcement graphic
Free for all 在聆听最喜爱的专辑或阅读一本好书时,你最想喝哪款葡萄酒?你是否有与 芭比 [Barbie] 、 蒙娜丽莎 [Mona Lisa] 、...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all 以下是那些为获得令人垂涎的两个字母而努力的考生所面对的问题,其中包括 我们自己的 萨曼莎·科尔-约翰逊 (Samantha Cole...
Wild menu - yellow background
Free for all 在家园郡精心培育的野性。还有一份不容错过的酒单。 从农场到鱼类到餐桌到煎锅……在声称与大地有着亲密关系的餐厅里有很多花里胡哨的东西...
Chenin Blanxc vineyard in South Africa
Free for all 詹西斯 (Jancis) 提出一个建议。本文的一个版本也发表在《金融时报》 上。另见 南非之星——白诗南 (Chenin Blanc)...

More from JancisRobinson.com

La Réméjeanne vineyard
Tasting articles 南罗纳河谷"西北走廊"高海拔葡萄酒品质潜力的预览。上图为雷梅让酒庄 (Domaine La Réméjeanne) 的生物多样性葡萄园之一...
Hugo, Rui, Francisco and Ricardo of Cas’amaro
Tasting articles 葡萄牙这一葡萄酒产区南半部分的巡礼。北半部分的生产商和葡萄酒请参见 第一部分 。上图(从左至右)为雨果·门德斯 (Hugo Mendes)...
Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Don't quote me 尼克·马丁 (Nick Martin) 在又一场期酒活动接近尾声时进行了反思。拉科斯特大皮伊酒庄 (Château Grand-Puy...
A castle in the Espera vineyards
Tasting articles 这个被低估且有时被误解的葡萄牙葡萄酒产区之旅。今天,我们介绍北部地区——恩科斯塔斯德艾尔 (Encostas d'Aire)、阿尔科巴萨...
Azenhas do Mar, Portugal
Inside information 这个葡萄牙产区的葡萄酒正在从历史的阴影中崭露头角。上图为科拉雷斯 (Colares) 的阿泽尼亚斯杜马尔 (Azenhas do Mar)...
Jota Tanaka at Gotemba distillery
Drinks not wine 对日本威士忌透明度的探索——以及这种理念如何影响苏格兰的威士忌酿造。上图, 田中穰太 (Jota Tanaka) 在富士御殿场蒸馏厂...
Glass of rose with food
Tasting articles 适合各种场合的桃红酒,从泳池边的粉红酒款到适合烧烤的浓郁版本。 我们在JancisRobinson.com经常透过玫瑰色的眼镜看世界...
A bottle of Moreau Naudet Chablis
Wines of the week 一款参考级夏布利 (Chablis),虽然风格更为成熟,售价从 $39.95, £31.95 起。 受到...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.