Langhe's disappearing bargain

There is something revealing about tasting the allegedly very modest Dolcetto made by some of the grandest names in Barolo and Barbaresco. Until recently considered only as an obligation to vinify as quickly as possible to make space in the fermentation tanks for Nebbiolo, this so-called daily quaffer is experiencing newfound love, with some delicious wines to prove it. This medium-bodied, refreshing red wine with notes of blackberries, soft tannins and modest...