Malbecs overpriced and great value

At the generic Argentina tasting in London last September, I stumbled upon a tin can left on the floor. On it were written the words: 'Worms! Do NOT open!', but I couldn't resist. There is something perversely compelling about confronting issues that are seemingly irresolvable. Cork v screwcap, high v low alcohol, Parker v whomever: these contentious battles rumble on with the chance of conclusive victory either way long since buried under the tangle of argument.

Another such combat theatre concerns value. I set out to fuel the fire by looking at Argentine Malbec and the relationship between price and...