The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

Tipping – a looming problem for the restaurant business

• 6 min read
Bob Cotton, chief executive of the British Hospitality Association whose members employ over 600,000 in hotels and restaurants, has spent most of this year hearing confessions.

It is a role to which he is physically well suited. A slightly portly, dapper man who has spent 35 years in this profession his love of good food is obvious. He combines therefore the right build and the right experience to be the 'restaurateurs' father confessor'.

But the issue, how restaurants administer the tronc (literally trunk and initially the poor box in a church) into which they literally place all tips left by their customers on a weekly basis, is beginning to exasperate even Cotton. Not just because over 400 individual restaurant and restaurant groups are under investigation by the Inland Revenue with some facing fines of up to 10 million but also because he believes that whatever agreement is finally arrived at will inevitably lead to higher menu prices.

A tronc system demands transparency so that it can be demonstrated that the restaurant has had no influence over its distribution in turn assuring customers that what they leave as tips goes to those who have served them rather than to the restaurateur. This means that the troncmaster must be independent of the restaurant's management and that the total left is distributed fully. "The broad principle of the tronc," Cotton explained, "is that what goes in must go out." But a lack of clarity, changing legislation and misbehaviour by certain restaurateurs is muddying an already highly complicated issue.

"The rules on who can and cannot be the troncmaster are clear but tough," explained Cotton citing the case of the owner of a 50 seater restaurant in the country who recently failed to notify his local Tax Office as to who was the troncmaster and was subsequently fined œ100,000.

The spread of credit cards has complicated the distribution (dividing cash was obviously much easier) as these have to be processed by the restaurant which even has to reimburse the tronc for the commission it loses to the credit card company on the tip.

The reason, incidentally, that the majority of restaurants include the word optional next to the service charge is that this supposed arms length transaction saves the restaurateur from paying the National Insurance (12.8%) on the service element.

Certain restaurateurs have, however, behaved most unprofessionally by withholding a part of the monthly tronc (I have heard in some cases of as much as 500 a month) to cover the costs of breakages. This Cotton absolutely condemns.

But the major source of confrontation between the restaurateurs and the Inland Revenue is over the formers' implementation of the minimum wage first introduced in 1999 ago by the Department of Trade and Industry.

The most widespread 'sin', at the root of the biggest fines, is that hoteliers and restaurateurs have been paying less than the minimum wage as their house pay and then using the money from the tronc to take the hourly pay above the legal level. As this goes back four years the sums involved are large. Equally considerable is the level of acrimony on the restaurateurs' part who cite in their defence confusion between the DTI (responsible for the minimum wage) and the Inland Revenue and the fact that most have had their past four years accounts accepted by their accountants and local tax offices, approval which would have included how they handled staff remuneration. Cotton is keen to point out that this legislation has not been amended in the past four years.

What is happening in the UK now bears a striking resemblance to what has been happening for the past 15 years in the US where an initial investigation into the earnings of casino dealers led the IRS to turn their attention to restaurants and an estimate of lost tax revenue of US$9 billion. Lawsuits followed which established that tips are a transaction between the customer and the waiter which the restaurant cannot touch nor can the restaurateur force the waiting staff to declare more tips. As a result the IRS has turned its attention on the under reporting waiting staff whilst simultaneously inviting restaurateurs to join two voluntary programmes (known as TRAC and TEPA) to avoid potential back audits and assessments. And as Gary Levy, the partner in charge of Hospitality with accountants JH Cohn, advises his numerous restaurant clients, "If the IRS invites you to a party, you go!"

This is similar advice to that being proffered by Steve Wright, a partner with accountants Vantis plc who helped David Moore, proprietor of the highly acclaimed Pied a Terre, defend his restaurant against an Inland Revenue demand for œ187,000 that was eventually settled for œ34,000 – which itself has knocked a big hole in this year's profits according to Moore. "The Inland Revenue is not going to grant an amnesty over this particularly because of the manner in which so many seem to have flouted the minimum wage legislation. The sooner restaurateurs realise this and start talking to the Revenue the less painful the penalties are likely to be."

And the sooner much needed light will be shed on a grey and murky area. What was most encouraging talking to Wright and Cotton is that both believe that the British tronc system is the fairest and most efficient method of rewarding restaurant staff. "Customers will always want to reward good service," Cotton explained "and a tronc system which awards points and therefore a higher share of the tips to the more experienced waiting staff and incorporates the chefs will generate the vital team effort. Cash tips are divisive, whilst the French system of an automatic 15% service charge is too rigid, non-motivational and is also liable for VAT."

The tronc system may be motivational but at the moment its guidelines are less than satisfactory operationally leaving many who visit British restaurants confused as to what optional means, why the service amount ranges from 10-15% and whether all that they leave will reach the waiting staff.

Cotton pointed on his desk to a draft 'Guide to Tronc Masters' which he hopes the Revenue will agree to so that it can become operational in 2004. But until the present cases are settled they seem reluctant to do so. In the interim the main losers are the waiting staff and the restaurant goers. I believe both deserve far greater clarification of the whole system, immediately.




Michael's, an undressed cafe in London W2 | Financial Times | 04 Jan 04

Michael's in Queensway is unique amongst all the cafés and restaurants I have visited.

It does not take bookings, in fact there is no phone number listed on its menu. The café has never experienced a bad debt and it is also one of the very few places where it does not matter whether you spill any of your food. As Michael's customers are only wearing a dressing gown at the most when their food is served it is most unlikely that they will run off without paying into the middle of Queensway or bother about a drop of special house salad dressing down their legs.

But Michael's is well worth visiting not just for the honest quality and value for money of the food on offer but for its location inside the magnificent, if rather faded, Porchester Baths.

This 1920's corner site comprises Turkish saunas and Russian steam rooms as well as a cold plunge and massage rooms and is described by the spa guides as 'blissfully old fashioned'. But to its many regulars it is one of London's best kept secrets particularly those who gather on a Saturday and during and after their steam bath sit, chat and set the world to rights.

Michael fuels their opinions with every single variation on an English breakfast; five big bowl salads – tuna, prawn, Greek, cottage cheese and a spa special; burgers; vegetarian quiche; grilled chicken breast; baked potatoes and sandwiches with various stuffings. Most of which seems to be washed down with very welcome pots of tea. Portions are generous and prices pretty reasonable with most main courses between £5 and 7 and the breakfast under a fiver.

The presentation may not be overly glamorous but then neither are the red faced customers – however refreshed and virtuous they may look and feel.

The Porchester Spa, Queensway London W2 5HS. 020-7792 3980
open 1000-2200
Men: Monday, Wednesday and Saturday
Women: Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday 1000-1600
Mixed: Sunday 1600-2200
Last orders: Mon-Sat 1930, Sunday morning 1530, Sunday evening 1930.


选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 297,437 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,163 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 297,437 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,163 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Nick on restaurants

Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork...
Sally Abé of Teal
Nick on restaurants 伦敦东区餐厅界令人兴奋的新成员。上图,萨莉·阿贝 (Sally Abé)。 萨莉·阿贝 (Sally Abé) 的新餐厅蒂尔 (Teal)...
Saveur des Poissons exterior, Tangier
Nick on restaurants 丹吉尔的鱼之味餐厅 (Le Saveur de Poisson) 绝对值得(稍有挑战性的)一游。 在当今世界的各种餐厅中...
Jack and Will of Fallow and Roe
Nick on restaurants 开设第二家餐厅并不容易,无论第一家有多成功。尼克 (Nick) 从伦敦西区冒险进入伦敦码头区。上图为联合主厨杰克·克罗夫特 (Jack...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Luis Pato Vinha Formal.jpg
Tasting articles 从绿酒产区 (Vinho Verde) 到阿尔加维 (Algarve),途经杜罗 (Douro)、巴伊拉达 (Bairrada)、当奥...
WWC Generic image black
Free for all 在这篇感人的 2026年葡萄酒写作比赛 参赛作品中,查理·吉奥根 (Charlie Geoghegan) 讲述了为世界末日挑选完美配酒的故事...
Alaverdi Monastery, in Akhmeta, Kakheti
Free for all 格鲁吉亚的葡萄酒继续令人惊喜。本文的略短版本发表于Financial Times (金融时报)。另请参阅品鉴文章 格鲁吉亚白葡萄酒...
The Crest Vineyard, terroir of Moutou
Wines of the week 拉法热酒庄 (Domaine Lafage) 来自加泰罗尼亚丘 (Côtes Catalanes) 的穆图 (Moutou) 不仅美味...
Dugladze amber Rkatsiteli, walnuts and shoti, bread cooked on the inside of an oven
Tasting articles 詹西斯深入探索这些独特的葡萄酒,尽管并未亲临这个独特的国度。上图来自生产商 杜格拉泽 (Dugladze) 的网站...
Penfolds Magill Estate chimney and vines
Tasting articles 大红葡萄酒继续在奔富王国占据主导地位,但变革即将到来。上图为奔富的玛吉尔庄园 (Magill Estate)。 澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局...
Boscareto vineyard in the snow
Tasting articles 沃尔特 (Walter) 关于这个显著易饮年份报告的总结部分。今天,评论来自南部和东部村庄卡斯蒂廖内法莱托 (Castiglione...
Barale estate and vineyards
Tasting articles 关于这个棘手年份的最终报告,如今展现出非凡的清新和易饮性。今天,我们将评鉴来自多个村庄以及北部和西部村庄凯拉斯科 (Cherasco)、罗迪...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.