The first of a two-part exploration of Muscadet looks at the regional-appellation wines. The photograph above is of the River Maine from the viewing platform in the village of Château-Thébaud – you can see how low the river is after the long, hot and very dry summer of 2022. Muscadet is a wine dogged by persistent myths of a light, lean, one-dimensional wine made in vast quantities, with only a...