ヴォルカニック・ワイン・アワード | The Jancis Robinson Story (ポッドキャスト) | Mission Blind Tasting

Pauline Vauthier on 2009

• 3 分で読めます
Image

In view of the photographs we published recently in What hail does to vines, we thought you might be interested in the following interview by Andrew Black, who sends out occasional  Première Presse newsletters from his base in Bordeaux, with Pauline, daughter of Alain Vauthier of the most famous St-Émilion of all, pictured below showing its proximity to those limestone côtes, Ch Ausone.

The extent of the hail damage in May was not easy to assess immediately after the storms, and tending the damaged vines can be a difficult exercise. Pauline Vauthier, whose main responsibilities are the Vauthier family’s vineyards, has been busy adapting the season’s work to the situation…

You got a bit of a scare with those hailstorms back in May. What was the extent of the damage in the end?
The whole of the vineyard owned by the Vauthier family was affected by them. The least affected plots lost 10% of the crop while the worst affected had 80% wiped out.

What about Ausone, in particular?
It wasn’t too bad. The vast majority of the vineyard only had about 10 to 20% damage. Only one plot was badly hit, and there we lost 80%.

Which plot was that?
One at the far end of the village. We’ll only be getting 3 to 5 hectolitres per hectare there, I reckon!

I imagine you’ve had to adjust the way you work the vines after such a setback…
The first thing we noticed after the damage was that the vines went into their shells, so to speak. They were obviously a bit stunned, and this meant the shooting was delayed. The vines just shut down for a couple of weeks; and then, when they did wake up, the vegetation went a bit mad. Shoots and suckers were all over the plant –the vines looked like bushes. So there was massive de-suckering work to do to get rid of the non-fruit bearing shoots.

The next step was the traditional raising of the wires to train the shoots in an upright position, which is usually a relatively easy operation to perform. However, this year we had to be extremely careful not to break the shoots, as many of them had been made brittle or fragile by the impact of hailstones. Even after this training had been completed, some of the shoots slipped down, and we had to go through the vines a second time to re-position them. The end result was that de-leafing was done later than scheduled.

By the time you completed the de-leafing were the vines also behind in their cycle?
No, what delay there was from the hail was quickly caught up. Mid-flowering point was on 3 Jun, which is reasonably early.

How did the flowering go?
Very well, generally. We had lovely weather. However, inexplicably, some areas had coulure. As usual, this was in the Merlot plots, as the Cabernet is much less prone to coulure. So this has affected the crop size, too.

At least, you’ll be economising this year on crop thinning work…
Strange as it may seem, we have also been crop thinning this year –but it has taken only a third of the usual time. It was not so much to reduce volume as to balance out the crop load on vines which had compacted bunches.

ausone2

When do expect to be harvesting?
If we base our calculations on the date of mid-flowering (which is the usual method), we’ll be picking between 20 and 25 Sep. However, we’ll know with greater precision over the next couple of weeks, since I’ve just observed the first berries having changed colour (21 Jul). At this stage, it would appear to be quite a normal year as far as picking dates are concerned.

Depends on the weather in August?
Yes, particularly this year, because up till now, although the weather pattern has been very nice, temperatures have jumped up and down between 15°C and 35°C. It’s been a bit weird. I’d much rather have a regular 25°C!

And what are your predictions for crop size?
Ausone will in fact be about normal. In the other vineyards belonging to the family, we’ll be a bit low, in my opinion. We still have to do the crop thinning there, but with the losses caused by hail, we’re unlikely to get the desired volume.

2008 was a small crop. Will it be a bit larger in ‘09?
No, it will be about the same.

購読プラン
スタンダード会員
$135
/年間
年間購読
ワイン愛好家向け
  • 295,210件のワインレビュー および 16,091本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
プレミアム会員
$249
/年間
 
本格的な愛好家向け

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
プロフェッショナル
$299
/年間
ワイン業界関係者(個人)向け 
  • 295,210件のワインレビュー および 16,091本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 最新のワイン・レビュー と記事に先行アクセス(一般公開の48時間前より)
  • 最大25件のワインレビューおよびスコアを商業利用可能(マーケティング用)
ビジネスプラン
$399
/年間
法人購読

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 最大250件のワインレビューおよびスコアを商業利用可能(マーケティング用)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
で購入
ニュースレター登録

編集部から、最新のワインニュースやトレンドを毎週メールでお届けします。

プライバシーポリシーおよび利用規約が適用されます。

More 無料で読める記事

Chenin Blanxc vineyard in South Africa
無料で読める記事 ジャンシスからの提案。この記事の別バージョンは『フィナンシャル・タイムズ』にも掲載されている。 南アフリカの星 - シュナン・ブラン...
female urban hands each holding a glass of wine - Shutterstock
無料で読める記事 ポーリーヌ・ヴィカール(Pauline Vicard)は問いかける。ワインは今でもその文化的意義を正当化できるのだろうか。この問いへの答えは...
Thomas Walk Vineyard in Kinsale
無料で読める記事 ジャンシスがエメラルド島のハイブリッド品種によって立場を思い知らされる。この記事のショート・バージョンはフィナンシャル...
Ungrafted monastrell vines in Jumilla
無料で読める記事 2026年6月4日 6月8日開催の2026年 オールド・ヴァイン・カンファレンス に先立ち、古樹ブドウ関連記事の概要を再掲載する...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Jota Tanaka at Gotemba distillery
ワイン以外の飲み物 日本のウイスキーの透明性についての探求、そしてその感性がスコットランドでのウイスキー造りにどのような影響を与えているかについて。写真上は...
Glass of rose with food
テイスティング記事 プールサイドのピンクから、BBQにぴったりの力強いバージョンまで、あらゆる場面に合うロゼワイン。 私たちJancisRobinson...
A bottle of Moreau Naudet Chablis
今週のワイン 基準となるシャブリ。ただし、よりリッチなスタイルで、 39.95ドル、31.95ポンド から入手可能だ。 最近の...
Tertius Boshoff of Stellenrust shows off multiple Chenins in London
テイスティング記事 5月にロンドンで開催された大規模な南アフリカ・テイスティングで紹介された数多くのケープ・シュナンとシュナン・ブレンドをレビュー...
The Pacific ocean view from Flowers Vineyards
Don't quote me クリス・ハワード (Chris Howard) は問いかける。火山性ワインというものがあるなら、オセアニック...
Beaujolais vineyard harvest imminent
テイスティング記事 ナターシャ・ヒューズ(Natasha Hughes)MWによると、ボージョレのビアン・ボワール(Bien Boire、「よく飲む」の意...
Alessandro Campatelli of Riecine
テイスティング記事 猛暑の年からの嬉しい驚き。写真上は、リエチーネのディレクター兼醸造家(現在はオーナー)のアレッサンドロ・カンパテッリ(Alessandro...
Japanese Wine by Nick Rowan - book cover
書籍レビュー ニック・ローワン (Nick Rowan) の新著は、アマチュアからプロフェッショナルまで、日本のワイン(そしてチーズ!...
JancisRobinson.comニュースレター
最新のワインニュースやトレンドを毎週メールでお届けします。
JancisRobinson.comでは、ニュースレターを無料配信しています。ワインに関する最新情報をいち早くお届けします。
なお、ご登録いただいた個人情報は、ニュースレターの配信以外の目的で利用したり、第三者に提供したりすることはありません。プライバシーポリシーおよび利用規約が適用されます.