Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

How to invest in restaurants

Saturday 5 August 2017 • 4 min read
Image

A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. 

Paul Campbell, 53, greeted me as warmly as any of the restaurateurs he has worked with. He guided me to a corner table, allowed the waitress to take our coffee order and then asked her to return with the breakfast menu. 

Campbell was dressed quite casually. A white shirt, the top two buttons of which were undone; a dark jacket and dark, but not matching, trousers as well as his iPhone and a notebook. He does not need to impress.

Campbell is the public face of Hill Capital Partners LLP. In fact he is its only face. His company gathers its name from the fact that the Campbell family live in Parliament Hill, north London, but he is the sole director. And yet over the past seven years Campbell has carved out a particular, and very useful niche, for himself.

As he sips his flat white, I ask him to describe his role. He pauses before saying, 'I find really interesting restaurant businesses to invest in early, businesses that have invariably been the creation of equally interesting individuals, and then I support and help them as much as I can to expand.'

His most notable successes in London to date have been with Hawksmoor, the steakhouse, with Vinoteca, the wine-focused bistro, and with Blacklock, the noisy restaurant that specialises in lamb chops finished on a grill with the help of an old iron. Campbell’s involvements in all three began, however, very differently.

It was in 2009, once Will Beckett and Huw Gott had opened their first Hawksmoor, that they contacted Campbell with a view to his future involvement. He met them, ate their food and was impressed. As a non-executive director he has backed them all the way. Today they have revenues of £43 million at their six London sites, with a further one in Manchester and they will open in the World Trade Centre in New York, probably in spring 2019, as well as four branches of Foxlow, their other restaurant brand.

Campbell’s involvement with Vinoteca began with his role as a customer at their first site in St John Street. His initial approach was rebuffed, but nine months later, as founders Charlie Young, Brett Wootton and Elena Ares were planning their second site, they returned his call. There are now five Vinotecas with the largest due to open in Bloomberg’s new London head office opposite Cannon Street station in early October. (The picture above shows him surveying the busy Vinoteca at Kings' Cross.)

Campbell’s friendship with Gordon Ker, Blacklock’s founder, began in very different circumstances. Ker was at the time a lawyer working on completion of a lease for Hawksmoor when, at the celebratory dinner after signing, he admitted that he felt drawn to the life of a restaurateur and had even worked on a business plan. The name changed; the style of food changed; but Campbell was drawn in and the second Blacklock site has just opened successfully in the City.

I ask him for common themes. 'Well, I suppose that all of my investments are in fairly traditional formats – steakhouse, restaurants with a wine focus – but where each is given a modern twist. I feel my bravery is investing early rather than in judging whether a particular style of food is going to become mainstream.'

He is also notable in evaluating the way those he backs are prepared to work and in particular to listen to his advice. 'How willing are those I am going to back to listen? Entrepreneurs must be open to my advice', he stresses.

Campbell gleaned this experience, and his financial muscle, between 2001 and 2016, firstly as Chief Financial Officer of Pizza Express and then as CEO of the AIM-listed Clapham House Group. It was an exciting and relatively uncluttered period as he refers to their hamburger chain, Gourmet Burger Kitchen, as the sole upmarket brand in what today has become a very crowded market.

Today, the situation is very different but nevertheless this presents a golden opportunity, in Campbell’s opinion, for laying down the basis of any burgeoning business. 'Premiums, cost pressures, increasing consumer discrimination, the rise in the importance of the female diner are all factors for any restaurateur. But the one I fear more than any is a rise in interest rates. We have got used to cheap money and I hope it stays that way.'

Part of Campbell’s optimism is that as an investor he can shift location. 'Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds, Bristol are cities full of people where there is an under-provision of restaurants in my opinion and the property is so much less expensive than London.'

The city may change, but Campbell’s approach will not. He will work with restaurateurs to first of all ensure that their brand and name work coherently for themselves, their customers and their staff. And then he will ensure that the restaurateurs see the bigger picture, an approach that can get lost in the detail. This approach is what has endeared him to Charlie Young at Vinoteca and Will Beckett of Hawksmoor, who explained. 'A non–executive director brings experience, is well connected and coaches rather than dictates. Paul has all of these qualities in spades.'

Campbell tells me that he now receives one business plan a week from prospective restaurateurs but that he cannot pinpoint why he pursues those that he does. But he admits to his good fortune, helping nice people to grow in the restaurant business. And, to having some fun along the way himself.

Become a member to continue reading
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 287,345 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,844 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 287,345 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,844 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 287,345 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,844 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 287,345 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,844 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Nick on restaurants

Las Teresas with hams
Nick on restaurants 前往西班牙最南端享受充满氛围且价格实惠的热情好客。上图为老城区的拉斯特雷萨斯酒吧 (Bar Las Teresas) –...
Lilibet's raw fish bar
Nick on restaurants 周六午餐有什么特别之处?这是一个关于在梅费尔最新开业餐厅享用午餐的故事。非常精致! 40多年来,这一直是我一周中最喜欢的一餐。事实上...
Sylt with beach and Strandkörbe
Nick on restaurants 年度美食盛宴回顾。上图为德国叙尔特岛 (Sylt),2025年7月为尼克 (Nick) 提供了过多的美食享受。 每年这个时候...
Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants 一位女儿重新唤起了对她父母深受喜爱的中餐厅的回忆。 潘氏这个姓氏与酒店业和中式烹饪界有着悠久的渊源。 从比尔·潘 (Bill...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Doug Tunnell, owner of Brick House Vineyard credit Cheryl Juetten
Tasting articles 节约用水,品尝这些来自深根联盟 (Deep Roots Coalition) 的葡萄酒,这是一个拒绝灌溉的酒庄集团。其中包括砖屋酒庄...
Rippon vineyard
Tasting articles 二十二个不做干燥一月的理由。其中包括一款由瑞彭 (Rippon) 酿造的黑皮诺 (Pinot Noir),来自他们位于新西兰中奥塔哥瓦纳卡湖...
cacao in the wild
Free for all 脱醇葡萄酒是真正葡萄酒的糟糕替代品。但有一两种可口的替代品。本文的一个版本由金融时报 发表。上图为 drinkkaoba.com...
Novus winery at night
Wines of the week 一股清新的空气,是节日过度放纵的完美解药。在美国标注为纳西亚科斯 [原文如此] 曼蒂尼亚。售价从 €10.60、£11.95、$19.99...
Sunny garden at Blue Farm
Don't quote me 时差反应,重感冒,但不知怎么地还是享受了很多好酒。 这篇日记是双倍分量,涵盖了10月下旬到12月下旬...
Alder's most memorable wines of 2025
Tasting articles 杯中的愉悦——和意义。 在回顾一年的品鉴时,我对那些在记忆中持续存在的东西感到着迷。哪些葡萄酒依然生动鲜明...
view of Lazzarito and the Alps in the background
Tasting articles 有关此年份的背景详情,请参阅 巴罗洛 2022 年份 – 年份报告。上图为拉扎里托 (Lazzarito) 葡萄园,背景是阿尔卑斯山。...
View of Serralunha d'Alba
Inside information 一个令人愉快的惊喜,展现出比最初预期更多的细腻和复杂性。上图为塞拉伦加·达尔巴 (Serralunga d'Alba) 的景色。...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.