Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
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Nick denies an accusation frequently levelled at restaurant critics. And revisits an old favourite. Those of us who write about restaurants are always subject to one of these questions: Did...
Nick Lander
Sunday 1 February 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Parisian and Catalan meals enjoyed and described, including a useful recommendation for travellers. Above, morning view from the Hotel Empordà...
Nick on restaurants
Nick enjoys the success of one of his ex-chefs and his younger brother. It is always fun eating in any...
Nick on restaurants
The subcontinent provides London's best bakers. And long queues for their produce and café. London’s most delicious baguettes are baked...
Nick on restaurants
A welcome three-storey Shoreditch newcomer. Boozer on the ground floor, New York vibe above. I first saw Benjy Leibowitz, below...
Nick on restaurants
Exceptional food and drinks in hard-to-find locations. Shimbashi Shimizu and Noyashichi are two of the most exceptional restaurants I have...
Nick on restaurants
Where to go if you're hungry and well heeled in Knightsbridge. This hotel kitchen has seen an impressive roll call...
Nick on restaurants
Casual but top-quality eating in the Japanese capital, with shades of Paris. Tokyo is a fascinating city. Its population of...
Nick on restaurants
Not strictly a restaurant review, but a look at food and drink in the air on a (very) long flight...
Nick on restaurants
Michelin stars, eel and a profusion of sakes as the cherry blossom faded. The prevailing mood of any customer arriving...
Nick on restaurants
A strong recommendation of a decidedly Italianate restaurant with rooms. These photographs taken in opposite directions could surely have been...
Nick on restaurants
Nick kicks off his review of a couple of restaurants in a famously historic Dutch city with an ode to...
Nick on restaurants
How Londoners can visit Poland without going to an airport. I initially requested a meeting with Jan Woroniecki to discuss...
Nick on restaurants
A very new neighbourhood restaurant that's a bakery and coffee shop during the day, serving items such as the pain...
Free for all
Can you take your own wine? What's the point of the tasting ritual? A version of some of these 'rules'...
Nick on restaurants
Nick wishes he'd stayed in the pub downstairs. The Public House Group is aptly named. Founded by a trio of...
Nick on restaurants
Nick’s recent trip down memory lane in London’s Soho. As I took the photo below of the restaurant’s stylish business...