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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants Poon's – now of Somerset House

A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of hospitality and Chinese cooking. From a restaurant in Macau where...

More restaurant reviews

JAL first course
Nick on restaurants Not strictly a restaurant review, but a look at food and drink in the air on a (very) long flight...
Kyoto, canal and cherry blossom
Nick on restaurants Michelin stars, eel and a profusion of sakes as the cherry blossom faded. The prevailing mood of any customer arriving...
Updown farmhouse hotel
Nick on restaurants A strong recommendation of a decidedly Italianate restaurant with rooms. These photographs taken in opposite directions could surely have been...
Harry's sabayon
Nick on restaurants Nick kicks off his review of a couple of restaurants in a famously historic Dutch city with an ode to...
Ognisko main dining room
Nick on restaurants How Londoners can visit Poland without going to an airport. I initially requested a meeting with Jan Woroniecki to discuss...
Don't Tell Dad's baked goods
Nick on restaurants A very new neighbourhood restaurant that's a bakery and coffee shop during the day, serving items such as the pain...
illustration by Runend Art/Unsplash of diners in a restaurant
Free for all Can you take your own wine? What's the point of the tasting ritual? A version of some of these 'rules'...
The Grill at The Maida
Nick on restaurants Nick wishes he'd stayed in the pub downstairs. The Public House Group is aptly named. Founded by a trio of...
10 Greek Street exterior
Nick on restaurants Nick’s recent trip down memory lane in London’s Soho. As I took the photo below of the restaurant’s stylish business...
Lunch in the garden in the Palmeraie, Marrakech in Feb 2025
Don't quote me Heat, or lack of it, was a theme this month. February is meant to be a short month, and we...
Wall in the Clocktower Hotel restaurant, Manchester
Nick on restaurants The northern home of Manchester United and Manchester City is now a mecca for the hungry. See also Jancis's report...
Sunset from El Fenn Rooftop Bar
Nick on restaurants Oranges plucked from the tree, tajines, pigeon pastillas, donkeys and suede jackets made to measure for a song. What's not...
Estelle Manor form the grounds
Nick on restaurants Three surprising restaurants in Estelle Manor, an ambitious, newish establishment outside Oxford. We feel very favourably towards the (very) private...
Crying heart
Nick on restaurants 13 February 2025 This week’s Throwback Thursday – a reminder to spare a thought for those tasked with providing hospitality...
Charlie Sims and Honey Spencer of Sune Restaurant in London sitting outside
Nick on restaurants An East London restaurant with a strong wine bent and an unusual front-of-house partnership. Above, Charlie Sims and Honey Spencer...
Bacchanalia restaurant
Nick on restaurants Nick interviews the man who buys wine for the 5,000 to 6,000 customers fed by Caprice Holdings every night. Above...
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