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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

More restaurant reviews

Westerland beach
Nick on restaurants A tiny north German island has far more than its fair share of great wine lists. Sylt, once described to...
Veeraswamy 1926 opening advert
Nick on restaurants London’s classic Indian restaurant, apparently spelled differently when launched, is not an unalloyed pleasure. I decided to book a table...
Les 2 Garcons themselves
Nick on restaurants Nick watches Crouch Enders lap up their local French bistro. The popular Les 2 Garçons occupies a relatively small site...
Matriarca wine bar
Nick on restaurants As Jancis monitored a recent family get-together in Portugal's Douro valley, Nick concentrated on what was on his plate. The...
Le Montrachet lounge
Nick on restaurants Nick inspects an old favourite with a new owner in the Côte de Beaune. Above, the refurbished lounge in June...
Outside apero setting at Troisgros
Nick on restaurants Greedy Landers ate out twice in one day, once in the town and once in the country. My bills were...
Wine waiter
Free for all Why our Ferran and Walter are living in relative paradise. A version of this article is published by the Financial...
Trevor Gulliver at the 2025 Fête du Vin
Nick on restaurants A round-up of what's been on Nick's mind and in his digestive system this week. Above, Trevor Gulliver of St...
Morning view from Hotel Empordà
Nick on restaurants Parisian and Catalan meals enjoyed and described, including a useful recommendation for travellers. Above, morning view from the Hotel Empordà...
Chris and Jeff Galvin
Nick on restaurants Nick enjoys the success of one of his ex-chefs and his younger brother. It is always fun eating in any...
Shaheen Peerbhai
Nick on restaurants The subcontinent provides London's best bakers. And long queues for their produce and café. London’s most delicious baguettes are baked...
One Club Row cheeseburger by Justin De Souza
Nick on restaurants A welcome three-storey Shoreditch newcomer. Boozer on the ground floor, New York vibe above. I first saw Benjy Leibowitz, below...
Kunihiro Shimizu, sushi chef
Nick on restaurants Exceptional food and drinks in hard-to-find locations. Shimbashi Shimizu and Noyashichi are two of the most exceptional restaurants I have...
Cod main course at The Capital
Nick on restaurants Where to go if you're hungry and well heeled in Knightsbridge. This hotel kitchen has seen an impressive roll call...
Cellar Door Aoyama interior
Nick on restaurants Casual but top-quality eating in the Japanese capital, with shades of Paris. Tokyo is a fascinating city. Its population of...
JAL first course
Nick on restaurants Not strictly a restaurant review, but a look at food and drink in the air on a (very) long flight...
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