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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Nick on restaurants Since my first and, regrettably, only trip to Japan I have come to appreciate the enormous gulf that separates Japanese...
Nick on restaurants Many restaurant goers might be wondering at the gradual disappearance of chef/restaurateur Stephen Bull's name from across London. His Smithfield...
Nick on restaurants High Holborn, an expensive restaurant which earned a Michelin star despite only opening last August, has just closed. Its owners...
Nick on restaurants A fortnight ago I was completely duped. I arrived at Elena's L'Etoile in Charlotte Street, W1, ostensibly to have dinner...
Nick on restaurants KEW, MIDDLESEX It is possible to sit at The Glasshouse in Kew and watch the world go by, particularly at...
Nick on restaurants Leopards are not supposed to change their spots, so is it fair to suppose that restaurateurs or chefs, equally thick-skinned...
Nick on restaurants Despite the obvious modernisation and Europeanisation of the past 30 years, the region between Oporto and Lisbon remains thoroughly distinctive...
Nick on restaurants Globalisation is playing strange tricks with Thai food. Whilst French-born chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten delivers his interpretation of Thai dishes in...
Nick on restaurants I am not an aggressive man but I had made one point very clear to the rest of my family...
Nick on restaurants Three weeks ago I ate within the space of 48 hours at Carluccio's Caffe in St.Christopher's Place and an exciting...
Nick on restaurants Over a cup of Costa Rica La Laguna filter coffee, made by Anita Le Roy, proprietor of the Monmouth Coffee...
Nick on restaurants My mother would not approve, I am sure, but I tend now to answer the question I am most often...
Nick on restaurants A week touring the West End and the west of London left me in no doubt that there are some...
Nick on restaurants The Oriental is not just a hotel but a landmark in Bangkok, an oasis of air-conditioned peace surrounded by traffic...
Nick on restaurants The journey from Kandoo to Maroush takes about half an hour if you are a quick walker. Despite these enchanting...
Nick on restaurants When the managing director of one of London's successful restaurant groups recently confided in me that he was close to...
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