Wines for cheese, cheeses for wine

In Memoirs of a Freeloader, Stephen Brook wrote at some length about the sumptuous meals with which wine writers used to be pampered (courted?)… 'Lobsters and truffle to oil your tasting notes, sir?' Something that, he lamented, had died out in more recent years. Although I relish food and wine pairing (blithely undeterred by the 'any food any wine' school of thought), I can honestly say that in the last 15 years, I have only ever eaten food at...