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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Latest Nick on restaurants

Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants Poon's – now of Somerset House

A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of hospitality and Chinese cooking. From a restaurant in Macau where...

Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

More Nick on restaurants

Outside apero setting at Troisgros
Nick on restaurants Greedy Landers ate out twice in one day, once in the town and once in the country. My bills were...
Trevor Gulliver at the 2025 Fête du Vin
Nick on restaurants A round-up of what's been on Nick's mind and in his digestive system this week. Above, Trevor Gulliver of St...
Morning view from Hotel Empordà
Nick on restaurants Parisian and Catalan meals enjoyed and described, including a useful recommendation for travellers. Above, morning view from the Hotel Empordà...
Chris and Jeff Galvin
Nick on restaurants Nick enjoys the success of one of his ex-chefs and his younger brother. It is always fun eating in any...
Shaheen Peerbhai
Nick on restaurants The subcontinent provides London's best bakers. And long queues for their produce and café. London’s most delicious baguettes are baked...
One Club Row cheeseburger by Justin De Souza
Nick on restaurants A welcome three-storey Shoreditch newcomer. Boozer on the ground floor, New York vibe above. I first saw Benjy Leibowitz, below...
Kunihiro Shimizu, sushi chef
Nick on restaurants Exceptional food and drinks in hard-to-find locations. Shimbashi Shimizu and Noyashichi are two of the most exceptional restaurants I have...
Cod main course at The Capital
Nick on restaurants Where to go if you're hungry and well heeled in Knightsbridge. This hotel kitchen has seen an impressive roll call...
Cellar Door Aoyama interior
Nick on restaurants Casual but top-quality eating in the Japanese capital, with shades of Paris. Tokyo is a fascinating city. Its population of...
JAL first course
Nick on restaurants Not strictly a restaurant review, but a look at food and drink in the air on a (very) long flight...
Kyoto, canal and cherry blossom
Nick on restaurants Michelin stars, eel and a profusion of sakes as the cherry blossom faded. The prevailing mood of any customer arriving...
Updown farmhouse hotel
Nick on restaurants A strong recommendation of a decidedly Italianate restaurant with rooms. These photographs taken in opposite directions could surely have been...
Harry's sabayon
Nick on restaurants Nick kicks off his review of a couple of restaurants in a famously historic Dutch city with an ode to...
Ognisko main dining room
Nick on restaurants How Londoners can visit Poland without going to an airport. I initially requested a meeting with Jan Woroniecki to discuss...
Don't Tell Dad's baked goods
Nick on restaurants A very new neighbourhood restaurant that's a bakery and coffee shop during the day, serving items such as the pain...
The Grill at The Maida
Nick on restaurants Nick wishes he'd stayed in the pub downstairs. The Public House Group is aptly named. Founded by a trio of...
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