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我们抵达了一个国家,那里的北欧棱角被一层洁白的雪毯所柔化。蓝白色的、酥脆表层的、干燥刺耳的、咯吱作响的、聚苯乙烯般的雪。虽然沿着峡湾边缘的风景路线让我们迟到了几个小时,但我们小小的荒野酒店的红色木门打开后,迎接我们的是满脸笑容和温暖的问候:带着精致口音、近乎完美的英语声音,以及木烟、阿夸维特酒 (akvavit) 和松树的香气。
一夜之间,狂风大作,随时威胁着要掀掉我们的铁皮屋顶,让我们像许多鳀鱼一样暴露在外——赤裸裸的,也许是腌制的。但我们保持着盖子不掉,早晨醒来时发现了另一番景象,雪毯被吹得干干净净,露出了像我们晨起头发一样的苔原和被冰雪与风雕刻出的不可思议的岩石构造。粉红色的天空阴沉地笼罩着灰色的、被维京人犁过的海洋...